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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Yellow Matter Custard 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andy Ross April, 1991
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2008
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E-man climbs (then downclimbs and reclimbs) Dikens...


An awkward route that has a way of suckering you into thinking it is way easier than the grade implies.

This route is positively unique for Sundown--It ascends a blocky dike that overhangs and leans ever-so-gently to the left. The first 20 feet are mellow, then the sucker-punch comes right after the 2nd bolt. It mellows out a bit after the crux.

Dikenstein is a "good" warm-up for the harder sport routes to the right of it (Yellow Matter Custard, 13a; and Romper Room, 12a).


At the far left end of the cliff, at the height of the approach trail to cliff.


3 bolts and a fixed anchor.

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Did something break on this route? Got on it yesterday and seems MUCH harder than before. I don't remember the deadpoint/dyno in the middle. Still fun after a rain!

By CCliffe
May 31, 2011

counterintuitive but when you figure out the move its pretty easy. good warm up