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 ADVANCED
Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T,S 
Agronaut, The S 
Banana Head S 
Bete Noir T,S 
Big Papa T 
Big Rip, The S 
Bon Temps Rouler T 
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 
Dance Connection S 
Dikenstein S 
End of the Tether T 
Eyeless in Gaza S 
Frigid Relations S 
Mithras S 
Pastryworks S 
Promised Land, The S 
Razor Crack T 
Romper Room S 
Rough Boys T 
Sewer Rat  T 
Shadowline T 
She's Crafty S 
Stiletto T 
Sundog Delight  S 
Tar and Feather T 
Tits Out for the Lads T 
Vanishing Point S 
Vultures T 
Yellow Matter Custard S 

Dikenstein 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andy Ross April, 1991
Page Views: 1,571
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2008

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E-man climbs (then downclimbs and reclimbs) Dikens...

Description 

An awkward route that has a way of suckering you into thinking it is way easier than the grade implies.

This route is positively unique for Sundown--It ascends a blocky dike that overhangs and leans ever-so-gently to the left. The first 20 feet are mellow, then the sucker-punch comes right after the 2nd bolt. It mellows out a bit after the crux.

Dikenstein is a "good" warm-up for the harder sport routes to the right of it (Yellow Matter Custard, 13a; and Romper Room, 12a).

Location 

At the far left end of the cliff, at the height of the approach trail to cliff.

Protection 

3 bolts and a fixed anchor.


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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Did something break on this route? Got on it yesterday and seems MUCH harder than before. I don't remember the deadpoint/dyno in the middle. Still fun after a rain!
By CCliffe
May 31, 2011

counterintuitive but when you figure out the move its pretty easy. good warm up