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The Dihedrals Area portion of the Gate Buttress has many fine climbs, most being dihedrals! Nearly all the routes are 5.9 or harder, except for Satan's Corner (5.8). For the most part, the climbs are single pitch with not much fixed gear.
Park at the pull-outs 1 1/4 miles up the canyon. This is the same spot as used for the Schoolroom area. Find a climber's trail just west of the parking which cruises past the popular Gate Boulder. Follow the trail through switchbacks more or less straight up to the obvious dihedrals. Some scrambling is required before getting to the base of the climbs.
9 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dihedrals Area:
Satan's Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Lisa's Shoulder 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Fallen Angel Variation 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Equipment Overhang Right 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Black and White John and Mary 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Stem the Tide 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Equipment Overhang 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 70'
Featured Route For Dihedrals Area
Black and White John and Mary 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.There is a direct finish to Black and White which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cut...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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