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 ADVANCED
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

Dihedral Two 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 5, 2001

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave. Both are open and somewhat irregular. Both are polished and smooth.

The second of these passed on the Streamside Trail (left-most) is Dihedral Two. Like Dihedral One, this route is slick, and somehow still a little fun, although not very aesthetic. At 5.8+, it is another sandbag. Once again, the polished nature of the South Face of the Whale's Tail makes me say 5.8+... +1. It is 5.9.

Go up the dihedral placing a few TCUs and nuts on your way up. Muscle and balance your way through the slippery crux. Move up the corner/flakes and pull up and over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.

Descend by finishing up on the slabs to the top, or by traversing off and to the climber's right, effectively reversing "My Dogma Got Run Over By My Karma" to the back side slabe of the tail.

Like Dihedral One, this route [has] fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic.

Protection 

The gear is reasonable with TCUs and stoppers. The crux is fairly close to the ground.


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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2006

FA is unknown.