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Lead up into the Black and White dihedral. Head up until it kicks you out right. It is easier if you head right with high hand and bad feet (compared to a little lower with good feet and bad hands). Then head back up when the roof ends.
This is at the Black and White Dihedral a few hundred feet north of the Cave Route.
Trad rack, Long draws to reduce rope drag, less then 3 inch gear.
BETA PHOTO: Goes right up the center.
The crux, good pro in the cracks.
The route showing with the toprope set from the sa...
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Nice route. Amazing exposure for a 60-footer. Make sure you bring some long runners to manage rope drag. This thing is still exfoliating, and there is a loose square-shaped block at the crux. It's not required to pull through. I'll try to trundle it next time I'm up there.
I think a 4" piece would be helpful, but the largest I brought up was a #3.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I had a 4" piece, but the largest I used was a 3" piece. I saw places for a 4" piece, but I don't think it is necessary
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The bolted anchor is on a questionable block (the geologist I climbed with agreed). There is a hairline stress fracture near the base. Personally, I would use a gear anchor over those bolts.
The "Good" gear placements near the top are on some precarious blocks. I sure wouldn't want to take a whipper and have the forces of the cams loosen those blocks. I only say that because I have had a similar failure of the rock while at Morrison.