|Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Ouch. This is the obvious and painful looking fingers crack just left of the Cave Route. The first 35-40 feet are tough, but do-able, with the assorted features on the face for feet. The last fifteen feet to the anchors are just incredibly hard, a fingertips crack with very few foot features. I still haven't figured out this crux.
small stuff- nothing bigger than 1.5
Giving D.R. another redpoint attempt. (Photo taken...
Entering the crux
This is what this route keeps doing to my finger b...
Mr. Trippett getting Digitalized!
BETA PHOTO: -
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 14, 2002
The crux is easy: Jam really hard in the first 40' so that your fingers are numb by the time you get to the rest before the crux. Rest at the last footholds, bite your tongue, paste your feet and f--ing crank to the chains!
|By Andy Johnson|
Jun 21, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough.
Sep 5, 2006
No where near a clean lead, I ended up aiding the upper half.
But. . . 2 Blue aliens and 6 or so green is all you need for this pitch!!
My fingers still hurt.. .
From: Concord, MA
Oct 30, 2006
tough moves getting off the ground. decent fingers for the middle, one or two foot rests, but the last 15 feet the crack goes back to tips. if you send this route, dont expect to have anything left resembling fingers.
Mar 13, 2007
The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!!
Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!!
Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!!
Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!!
|By charley graham|
Nov 26, 2009
In the 1988 American Alpine Journal, Eric Bjornstad contributed that this route was put up by Alan Lester and Chip Chace.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I'm not sure where you would place two blue Aliens, maybe at the start if your short? Green Aliens and .3 Camalots are all you need for this climb. I think 7 or 8 will sew it up.
|By Keith Beckley|
Oct 22, 2011
I wanted to try this on TR but really couldnt get my fingers in much.....i thought id break em if i fell...SUPER hard for big fingers....or im just lame..5.13 tips for me
|By Tommy L-D|
Jan 26, 2012
Destroyed my fingers, never were the same for the rest of the trip.
...But it hurt sooo good
|By Skylar Smith|
Apr 17, 2012
More like digital bleedout than digital readout. Shredded my fingers.....not fun!