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Digital Extraction 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Keith Lober '77 FFA Hong/Sonnenfield '82
Page Views: 2,329
Submitted By: aschwartz on Nov 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an excellent climb with lots of places for small gear (hence its original name "Made for Aid"). First pitch gets you started with an incredibility balancing thin layback/tips crack with crux sections separated by incuts for stances.(11c 110 ft). Second pitch starts out spicy with a bad button head, a pin, and small cams/nuts for protection. The crack then opens to unrelenting fingers/tips with no real rest until the last 20 feet, after the rest fire the crux(11d 140 ft). I have not done the third pitch, looks like hands? Can be rappelled with a single 80 meter rope.

Location 

First crack right(south)of El Matador

Protection 

Lots of small gear, there are a few spots for a #1 and a .75 camalot. hanging belays.


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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 9, 2009

A surprisingly overlooked classic! The first pitch has seen a bit of activity in the last few seasons, keeping it clean...haven't done the second pitch yet, or talked to anyone who has recently, it looks to have some sizable shrubbery in a couple spots and the status of the anchor sounds questionable...anyone been on it lately?
By Handsome B. Wonderful
Apr 30, 2011

Actually- I think the original name was "Christians in Cam a lot". The story behind it is really funny, but I will let you do the research on that.