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This route lies on the westface of the lower Bowling Alley Rock (to the left and around the corner of "Mosquito Burrito"). Gain a ledge and place gear in the lower crack, move up on good holds and finger jams to a tricky move to gain a ledge. Place small gear and fire up the thin crack to a wide(big hands)crack. Power up the crack and gain the slab. Belay from good gear or walk off to the east. There was no sign of any activity on this crack and we removed a large, loose flake/block at the crux. A good little crack with great moves.
Small RPs and Friends to 3.5. Walk off the backside of the rock. A good anchor can be set on the slab above the crack.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
10 or 10+ sounds about right. It was pretty dirty and needed a good cleaning. For lack of a brush, I gave it a poor cleaning with my hands while on lead. The moves are actually pretty good and quite fun. The detractors of this climb are the modest length, the ledge at mid-height that breaks up the climbing, and the relatively dirty nature of the climb (smears are scaley and lichenous). The last of these is mitigated somewhat after the most recent set of ascents, but the route still needs a good brushing.
Anyway, it deserves some more cleaning and some more ascents.
|By david goldstein|
Jul 16, 2008
More like 1.5 stars. TB acurately describes the pitch's strengths and weaknesses.