Digital Disco  5.11+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Nathan Brown, Bruce Burgess, Tim Snyder New Route:  Yes Season:  winter, early spring Submitted By:  gneiss pirate on Feb 14, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Some of your digits may have a hangover after this one.

Fierce crimping and good balance will lead to the 3rd bolt(5.11+,12-). Move right then up and left. Great gear will lead up and right to another bolt. Follow crimps and bolts past another cruxy section(well protected). Climb immaculate 5.10 face on small gear to the last bolt. Bust the last disco move up and right then straight up for the last piece which protects the traverse over to the Flailin in The Breeze anchors. You can lower off with a 70 meter. A 60 m will require a top belay. Rap back down to the Nuclear Arms rap tree. Rap back down the Gulley.

Location 

This route starts at a small ledge about 100 ft up the 5th class gulley which seperates the Slab Accurate wall and the Nuclear Arms wall. Scamper up the gulley or climb Nuclear Arms to the standard pine tree finish and move down to the small ledge.

Protection 

8 bolts, purple camalot, double tcus to 1, or equivalent size c3's, medium copper steel rps, yellow tcu or hybrid alien to protect the traverse to the anchor.