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Digital Delight 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Robinson - 1974
Page Views: 4,790
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Ben Lyon and Ryan Howa at the gear belay at the to...

Description 

One of the few moderates in the gorge, Digital Delight is a fun challenge for the leader breaking into the 5.8 grade. Most climbers skip the dirty first pitch, instead opting to take the trail switchback to the big ledge at the top of P1 and start on the second pitch. This is one of a few climbs that tops out on the lip of the gorge.

P1 - climb a vegetated corner that angles up and right to a tree ledge (actually a continuation of the base trail). 60'
P2 - work your way up a chimney, passing a tree, to a sizeable ledge; move left to belay. 80'
P3 - stem and crack climb up a nice orange corner, leading to another ledge. Avoid knocking off loose rock as you move left to a slung tree and belay. 50'
P4 - traverse slightly left from the belay, then move up a right-facing corner, trending right under roofs, and continue to the top of the gorge. 110'


Location 

Starts down the trail from Primitive Paradox, about 50' right of Highly Wired. Double-rope rap from a stout cable on a tree at the topout.


Protection 

Standard rack; small to medium gear. No bolted belays/anchors.



Photos of Digital Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Cracking the whip to clear a snag on Digital Delight.  Photo by Ryan.
Cracking the whip to clear a snag on Digital Delig...
Moving up after the traverse on P4 of Digital Delight.  Photo by Ryan Cantor.
Moving up after the traverse on P4 of Digital Deli...
1st or 2nd pitch of DD
1st or 2nd pitch of DD
Rapping down Digital Delight, a much quicker way to get down at the start of the day than the trail.
Rapping down Digital Delight, a much quicker way t...
Comments on Digital Delight Add Comment
Show which comments
By JonSkeen
May 31, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Climbed this route over Memorial Day and it was in great shape despite heavy rain the night before. We got a little turned around looking for climber's access - fastest way is to head to the left past the info center and follow the sign to the North Rim Trail. The turnoff is clearly marked, we just headed the wrong way.

Once we found the route, we skipped the veggie pitch and started on the platform above. Our first pitch was a little slick, but climbable; dry sturdy rock beyond. Last pitch has two stuck cams: a yellow Metolius in ok shape and a busted orange that's significantly less good. Route tops out adjacent to an overlook which was a fun surprise for us and the people looking at the river.

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Mar 29, 2007

Best way out of the gorge to avoid a hike out. P4 gets loose, reachy, and thin as you trend right. As an option, trend left for hard climbing but more holds and less loose rock.

By Joey Wolfe
Feb 26, 2008

The gear on the open book corner pitch(pitch three by the above description) is thin, small stoppers are useful.

By s f
From: GA/CO
Dec 1, 2009

Classic moderate...probably climbed this route 20 times. Consider skipping pitch one and combining two and three. The gear leading up to the crux on pitch three can be tricky, but then you can slot a perfect nut. Beware, a key jug has a huge crack and could break one day (grab it on the left). Be careful of the loose blocks on the pitch four belay. Then, head up and left from the belay past a flake to a cramped ledge under the roof. Step out and right, keeping right. The top out is a blast.

By Shadrock
From: Athens, GA
Jun 7, 2014

Have a question about possible alternatives on P4. Did this today (6/7/2014) and, while trending somewhat left at the start of P4, went up through a big overhang on relatively easy terrain. I was definitely not in the corner (probably 10-15 ft to the right of it): you can see the route I took in this image - I'm the little helmet peaking out on the right hand side of the frame. We belayed at an old tree about 20ft left of the top-out from P3, then I went pretty much up an easy face to a big pod, and then pulled out of a roof on a big lieback. Again, I definitely didn't traverse all the way over to a right-facing corner.

There are two fixed pieces at the time of writing (cams: the upper one is an orange Omega "link" cam). I'm just curious if this is on-route for DD or something else. Any thoughts? Just curious....

By s f
From: GA/CO
Jun 9, 2014

Shadrock: IMO, going over the little roof like you described is not a variation but the main route up P4.

By Shadrock
From: Athens, GA
Jun 10, 2014

Thanks, SF. I was a little confused seeing pics of folks who appeared to be further off to the left. Just wondered if I'd gone astray. Thanks for the confirmation. Cheers.