Digital Alarm  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  John Steiger, Ray Ringle Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Although this climb has an unassuming but thought-provoking start, the interesting middle section and the spectacular final third of the route all combine to make a great line. The start of this route is found by locating the vertical cracks ten feet left of the dihedral start of Sudden Death. Approximately 25 feet up these cracks, the original line moved left on small ledges to the obvious protectable crack before stepping right into the prominent left-facing dihedral. The recommended direct line ascends the short crack (5.10+) that leads straight from the lower cracks into the dihedral above (much less rope-drag, and better climbing.) About 25 feet up the dihedral it is necessary to reach out left and protect in the next crack system over, then make strenuous moves over and into that weakness, which is then followed to the top. Tricky, but safe protection during the demanding and lengthy crux section leads to the fun roof finish of Flexible Flyer, then the anchors. 110 feet (starting from the upper ledge above the slab.) (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Variation – The start of Dead Precedents is an alternate line to reach the upper crack systems of this climb. As both starts are similar in safety, the only difference is the difficulty of the moves required to enter the prominent left-facing dihedral that comprises the middle of the route when utilizing the newly straightened out original start.

Protection 

Pro to 3.5", anchors.

location 

See Squeezing the Lemmon.