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The Pipe Dream
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Diggler 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,624
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jul 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Failing at knee-baring once again on the Diggler, ...

Description 

After getting through the last bulge on Rucksack Wanderer, bust right to a big cobble and kneebar rest. A couple of big moves up on good holds takes you to a jug that is typically full of bird crap since it is a nest, grab it shallow unless it has been cleaned out recently. A couple of moves up you are landed in some good pockets out of sequence. Fix your hands and make a move up then gun for the jug at the anchors. Quite an exciting finishing throw and pretty much guaranteed to give you some flight time.

Location 

Start on Rucksack and after the last bulge move straight up the steeper wall above.

Protection 

Bolts and a bolted anchor


Photos of Diggler Slideshow Add Photo
getting into the steeps <br />
getting into the steeps
Just past where Diggler and Rucksack split, photo by Kate A.
Just past where Diggler and Rucksack split, photo ...
keith
keith

Comments on Diggler Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

the dr. topo calls this a 12d... I'd call it a very stout 12d, or a very soft 13a.
By stefan96
From: Boulder, Co
Apr 13, 2010

what is la confianza then?
By KevinM
Jul 3, 2011

The dr. topo grades are wrong at the lower end. There is a good blog out there about the grades at the Dream (look on 8a), but basically The Diggler and Confienza are both 13a according to the blog. I would personally say hard 13a, but i'm weak.
By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

A tad more bouldery, a tad easier, and a tad less fun than Confianza. If you do one, the other will come easy.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 12, 2012

Sometime in the last 2 years the jug with the birds nest has been cleaned out and blocked with glue leaving a good hold and no nest.