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Approaching the crux.
This route is the best approach route to Metamorphosis, as it is pretty direct and at a similar grade. The climbing is varied and reasonably well protected. The guidebook rates this pitch 10a, but I think the crux move is a bit difficult to onsight, and it took me two tries to redpoint this route, and I normally don't fall on 10a. I've climbed this route five times now. I like it.
It starts near the top of the ramp on the south face, but below the Yellow Traverse. It heads out a small, left-leaning, left-facing dihedral with a small roof at the top (crux). The beta on this roof is to get the left foot as high as possible before trying to step over the roof with the right foot. The holds are not as good as you'd expect.
This route protects with single units from stoppers to #2 Camalot. There is a variety of ancient fixed gear on this route (copperhead, RURP, pin, fixed nut, bolt) which can and should be backed up. Addendum: The bolt has been updated. Thanks, Steve & Greg!
At the old bolt above the crux. Tiny bashie at my ...
Moving left after the crux. The initial Metamomorp...
Placing a good, but hard to see, red Alien that's ...
Approaching the crux, following. The screamer abov...
Finishing the crux. The old bolt that you can clip...
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
May 16, 2002
Just wanted to stress the loose rock warning. My partner snapped a jug just past the crux and hit the ledge. Be careful.
|By Joe Huggins|
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Sep 19, 2002
Yeah, Kyle named it Gatorade & Tequila as the aid climb. I walked up as he and Charlie were finishing freeing it. Kyle wanted to rename it as a free climb. I suggested since it's next to Rainbow Wall, why not...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2003
Bring a Screamer for the bashie. Easier(?) beta for the roof: Lean left off the slanting handholds. Put both(!) knees on the low angle left facing corner. Step up.
|By david goldstein|
Jun 28, 2003
Worthwhile as an approach to Metamorphosis and as an historical fixed gear tour.
|By kyle lefkoff|
Aug 29, 2003
Did this yesterday with Snipes, and found it to be solid 5.10 at the crux, especially in light of the creepy gear. The pin and the bolt are both ca. 1985 and should be replaced with like gear, although the bolt should be placed lower so you can clip from the crux holds.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2003
The climb has gotten a little easier with the dropping of the big rock above the bashie (Dec 2000?), and now a good right-hand side pull replaces the former crux. The climb still grades 5.10a but is less of a sandbag. I loaded the climb up with gear, although this did include a few dubious pieces, for the most part I felt that it was reasonably well protected. As it dumped rain on me while I was climbing, the route was soaked by the time my partner followed it. The pieces were good/close enough such that: A) my 5'5" partner could aid the route on the gear I had set. B) None of them pulled on rope tension or on aid. Obviously. that's not tha same as a lead fall, but I believe the gear was that good as well. The route is rated 'S' not so much for any [inherent] danger, but more for the effort and trickery required to get so much gear at a reasonable quality.
2 stars, in my book, a fun pitch with unique movement and some puzzling protection options.
5.10a seems fair in the route's present state. I think it was winter of Y2K when the big block (300#) pulled out and the route is easier now.
I don't think that the fixed rurp need be replaced. Down and right of it are some OK placements for clean trad gear and the 'new' piece might not be as good as the old, as the rock may deteriorate or the placement might just not be as good. I'd venture to say leave what is proven for now.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 8, 2007
The old bolt has been replaced. Thanks to Greg Hand for coming out to Eldo on such a windy day to...lend a hand.
|By Rob Kepley|
Jul 10, 2007
Fun climb with interesting moves. 10a seems about right. I felt it protected well where needed.
|By Chris Beh|
Jul 13, 2007
Thanks for replacing the bolt.
This makes a great first pitch into Metamorphosis. As good as it gets in Eldo, for the grade and a two pitch combo...on the spicy side :-).
|By Danny Inman|
Oct 4, 2007
Pretty cool route and a good approach to Metamorphosis. Clipping the antique gear (RURP, pin, copper-head) adds a little spice to the moves.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Oct 4, 2007
Boy, Forrest copperheads, I remember many placements of those that didn't exactly bring my heart rate down! They had bigger wires than the stoppers of the same size, but the stiffness of those wires could make them pop out if you had rope drag problems. I used to have a picture of a belayer with about 3 of those that slid down the rope to the belayers left hand. He was looking at the sharp end of the rope intensely with that "could you please get something bomber in?" look on his face.
|By FC John|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 4, 2007
Not as spicy as others have said. Found the route quite protectable. Easy climbing for the first 20 ft up the slab to 15 ft of fun 5.10- to 5.9 climbing to the base of Meta.
Sep 22, 2010
unlike metamorphosis, i felt this pitch protected fine. i found good gear and frequently.i didn't place anything behind the hollow flake, it wasn't necessary. glad that bolt was there further up though!