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This route is a challenge right from the start. The crux is at the bottom where a short 7ft crack turns horizontal to meet up with the rest of the crack just to the right of it. Using a nice jug that's deep in the crack and some clever smearing you can set yourself up nicely to make the transition between the two cracks. After the crux is below you a series of well placed hand jams will give you success.
The route is in the brother's buttress and twin sisters area and is just to the right at you pass the lower wall of the twin sisters on the trail that comes up from the road, parking lot, and outhouses below.
There is one large boulder and one 3ft round boulder on top of the bluff that make for great top rope anchors but if your short on gear there are some good living trees that will do the trick if set up properly
|Comments on Difficult Crack
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 13, 2010
As I was soloing this back in the 80's I was nearing the top when a snake slithered out of the exit crack. I decided to downclimb the route rather than chance having another snake peek out at me as I climbed by.
From: Alsip, Il
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
There two Bolts up top for anchors for this route.
From: So ILL
Jan 17, 2012
one of the most polished routes at the palisades. that said, it is still enjoyable to climb and if you are confident it makes for an exciting boulder problem.