Different Types of Anchors
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Hello everyone, |
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That's not really something you want to learn on the Internet. Get out with different, more experienced partners, and you'll likely learn new (to you) techniques in a safe(r) environment. |
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I predict a slew of "just use the rope" comments |
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Depends... |
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Depends, for a gear anchor I frequently use a cord-a-let, though I'm not opposed to using a combination of slings to get things equalized. If it's two bolts, I love a double length sling in a sliding x with limiting knots, If I know that there's going to be bolted anchors, I'll set it up ahead of time and it's super quick |
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Rob Gordon wrote:I predict a slew of "just use the rope" commentsthats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know. |
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Fall Guy wrote: thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;) |
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Love the top rope tough guy pics... Hilarious! the boat anchor cracked me up. |
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You just need to be able to solidly equalize three or more pieces quickly, no matter what. There are many ways to do it. |
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Fall Guy wrote: thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building. |
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bearbreeder wrote: block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;)yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice. |
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Fall Guy wrote: yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice.so yr basically rebuilding the anchor every belay ... hmmmmm .... whatever works for ya ;) |
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Just to be clear, are we talking about what to do when you are going from the bottom to the top? |
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thanks for your time and input. I found this link to help me out a little with different types of anchors and their pros/cons. im posting it just in case someone searches this thread and finds it helpful like i did. let me know if it works or not. i'm no computer wiz. if it doesn't work maybe copy and paste it in the url. |
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JCM wrote: What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.Hahaha awesome comment Equalette/Cordelette while on multi pitch. If building top rope anchors there's a whole slew of stuff you can do. TR anchors are all about improvisation and building the most solid anchor with the gear you've got. Get Longs latest climbing anchors book, its crucial. SRENE |
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Two five piece bolts with chain. Clean and easy. Good luck |
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JCM wrote: What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.I don't know, their tails are specially designed through years of genetic engineering to bite the ass end of a black speckled varmit deeply entrenched in its earthened mud-hole doing its old lady, and you can just grab and rip that fucker out....so maybe like a cam stem, or something. Anchors, I use them all, even good ones. |