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Different Types of Anchors
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By bruce Mcintosh
Apr 8, 2013

Hello everyone,

I am wondering about the different types of anchors people use just so i have more options to choose from. I usually use three pieces of pro, equalize them with a cordellette, and tie an eight knot for the master point. It is a basic anchor and i am curious as to what type of anchor you build when at the belay? I am open to all ideas and would like to hear your opinions.

Thank You,

Bruce Mcintosh


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Apr 8, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

That's not really something you want to learn on the Internet. Get out with different, more experienced partners, and you'll likely learn new (to you) techniques in a safe(r) environment.


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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Apr 8, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...

I predict a slew of "just use the rope" comments


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Apr 8, 2013

Depends...

- Leading, multi-pitch, top rope?
- Swinging leads, block leading?
- Bolts, gear, BFT/BFR?
- Gear available?

Your question is akin to "How do you cook dinner?" Too many answers with too many variables.


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By John D
Apr 8, 2013

Depends, for a gear anchor I frequently use a cord-a-let, though I'm not opposed to using a combination of slings to get things equalized. If it's two bolts, I love a double length sling in a sliding x with limiting knots, If I know that there's going to be bolted anchors, I'll set it up ahead of time and it's super quick

I'm not a fan of using the rope, I usually lead in blocks and even if I'm not, I like to have the rope free of the anchor just in case.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 8, 2013
modern man

Rob Gordon wrote:
I predict a slew of "just use the rope" comments


thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.


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By bearbreeder
Apr 9, 2013

Fall Guy wrote:
thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.


block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;)


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By Andy F
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2013
awesome pitch

Love the top rope tough guy pics... Hilarious! the boat anchor cracked me up.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 9, 2013
OTL

post your sketchy belay pictures here!

It just has to be 'good enough'.


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By John Husky
Apr 11, 2013

You just need to be able to solidly equalize three or more pieces quickly, no matter what. There are many ways to do it.

I like an equalette or cordalette. Obviously I know nothing and will soon die of willful ignorance.

Ask here and you'll get 3-4 lines of BS from the various camps, each more sure than the next that they are the only ones who know the best way. I learned with John Long's book.

Let the shit show begin!


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Apr 11, 2013

Fall Guy wrote:
thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.


What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps?


It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 11, 2013
modern man

bearbreeder wrote:
block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;)


yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice.


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By bearbreeder
Apr 11, 2013

Fall Guy wrote:
yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice.


so yr basically rebuilding the anchor every belay ...

hmmmmm ....

whatever works for ya ;)


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By Paul Trendler
From Bend, Oregon
Apr 12, 2013
 VOTCD. Photo  by <a href='http://Tylerroemer.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >Tylerroemer.com</a>

Just to be clear, are we talking about what to do when you are going from the bottom to the top?


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By bruce Mcintosh
Apr 12, 2013

thanks for your time and input. I found this link to help me out a little with different types of anchors and their pros/cons. im posting it just in case someone searches this thread and finds it helpful like i did. let me know if it works or not. i'm no computer wiz. if it doesn't work maybe copy and paste it in the url.

Peace

www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF


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By LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 22, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in the background

JCM wrote:
What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.


Hahaha awesome comment

Equalette/Cordelette while on multi pitch. If building top rope anchors there's a whole slew of stuff you can do. TR anchors are all about improvisation and building the most solid anchor with the gear you've got. Get Longs latest climbing anchors book, its crucial. SRENE


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By thomas ellis
From abq
Apr 22, 2013
Mint jullop

Two five piece bolts with chain. Clean and easy. Good luck
Hope this helps


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 25, 2013
smiley face

JCM wrote:
What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.


I don't know, their tails are specially designed through years of genetic engineering to bite the ass end of a black speckled varmit deeply entrenched in its earthened mud-hole doing its old lady, and you can just grab and rip that fucker out....so maybe like a cam stem, or something.


Anchors, I use them all, even good ones.


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