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Different Types of Anchors
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Apr 8, 2013
Hello everyone,

I am wondering about the different types of anchors people use just so i have more options to choose from. I usually use three pieces of pro, equalize them with a cordellette, and tie an eight knot for the master point. It is a basic anchor and i am curious as to what type of anchor you build when at the belay? I am open to all ideas and would like to hear your opinions.

Thank You,

Bruce Mcintosh
bruce Mcintosh
Joined Apr 18, 2012
112 points
Apr 8, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
That's not really something you want to learn on the Internet. Get out with different, more experienced partners, and you'll likely learn new (to you) techniques in a safe(r) environment. Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Apr 8, 2013
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...
I predict a slew of "just use the rope" comments Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Joined Feb 2, 2009
138 points
Apr 8, 2013
Depends...

- Leading, multi-pitch, top rope?
- Swinging leads, block leading?
- Bolts, gear, BFT/BFR?
- Gear available?

Your question is akin to "How do you cook dinner?" Too many answers with too many variables.
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
Apr 8, 2013
Depends, for a gear anchor I frequently use a cord-a-let, though I'm not opposed to using a combination of slings to get things equalized. If it's two bolts, I love a double length sling in a sliding x with limiting knots, If I know that there's going to be bolted anchors, I'll set it up ahead of time and it's super quick

I'm not a fan of using the rope, I usually lead in blocks and even if I'm not, I like to have the rope free of the anchor just in case.
John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Apr 8, 2013
the man was smart
Rob Gordon wrote:
I predict a slew of "just use the rope" comments


thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,057 points
Apr 9, 2013
Fall Guy wrote:
thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.


block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,153 points
Apr 9, 2013
awesome pitch
Love the top rope tough guy pics... Hilarious! the boat anchor cracked me up. Andy F
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jun 30, 2010
216 points
Apr 9, 2013
OTL
post your sketchy belay pictures here!

It just has to be 'good enough'.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
Apr 11, 2013
You just need to be able to solidly equalize three or more pieces quickly, no matter what. There are many ways to do it.

I like an equalette or cordalette. Obviously I know nothing and will soon die of willful ignorance.

Ask here and you'll get 3-4 lines of BS from the various camps, each more sure than the next that they are the only ones who know the best way. I learned with John Long's book.

Let the shit show begin!
John Husky
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points
Apr 11, 2013
Fall Guy wrote:
thats just what MOST climbers that have a clue do, there are many easties with no clue though. I hear a few westies as well dont know.


What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps?


It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
34 points
Apr 11, 2013
the man was smart
bearbreeder wrote:
block lead much? ... or lead all the pitches ;)


yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice.
T Roper
From VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,057 points
Apr 11, 2013
Fall Guy wrote:
yeah, 2-3 clove hitches can be moved around much faster than anything else, all it takes is some practice.


so yr basically rebuilding the anchor every belay ...

hmmmmm ....

whatever works for ya ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
2,153 points
Apr 12, 2013
 VOTCD. Photo  by tylerroemer.com
Just to be clear, are we talking about what to do when you are going from the bottom to the top? Paul Trendler
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Sep 22, 2011
124 points
Apr 12, 2013
thanks for your time and input. I found this link to help me out a little with different types of anchors and their pros/cons. im posting it just in case someone searches this thread and finds it helpful like i did. let me know if it works or not. i'm no computer wiz. if it doesn't work maybe copy and paste it in the url.

Peace

chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PD...
bruce Mcintosh
Joined Apr 18, 2012
112 points
Apr 22, 2013
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
JCM wrote:
What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.


Hahaha awesome comment

Equalette/Cordelette while on multi pitch. If building top rope anchors there's a whole slew of stuff you can do. TR anchors are all about improvisation and building the most solid anchor with the gear you've got. Get Longs latest climbing anchors book, its crucial. SRENE
LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Apr 22, 2013
Mint jullop
Two five piece bolts with chain. Clean and easy. Good luck
Hope this helps
thomas ellis
From abq
Joined Oct 12, 2009
1,652 points
Apr 25, 2013
Rrrrr
JCM wrote:
What are these "westies" you speak of? The small dogs, perhaps? It is true, they have not a clue about anchor building.


I don't know, their tails are specially designed through years of genetic engineering to bite the ass end of a black speckled varmit deeply entrenched in its earthened mud-hole doing its old lady, and you can just grab and rip that fucker out....so maybe like a cam stem, or something.


Anchors, I use them all, even good ones.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points


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