Different improvised descenders

I was hoping that everyone could throw in any methods they know for improvising a descent device. I rigged up something today that was a bight of the rappel ropes passed through the middle of two small wire gates and clipped to my harness with two larger carabiners. I backed it up with a prussik. I got down okay.

I just read this article which gives some other options that might be available, and was wondering if there is anything else.
californiamountaineer.net/tom's%20tips/tom's%20tips.htm

munter hitch

carabiner brake-back it up with a pass around your hips if you need the extra friction.

munter hitch<

+1
I like to keep it simple

I've used a munter hitch once before and would never do it again. It took twice as long to get down and the rope was so tangled, a second rappel would have been very difficult.

DannyUncanny wrote:I've used a munter hitch once before and would never do it again. It took twice as long to get down and the rope was so tangled, a second rappel would have been very difficult.

You don't usually choose to use a Munter for a rappel, it's something you would use if you don't have any better options.

Yes, I've rapped on a Munter once but only because all I had left was a single locker. I could have done a military-style biner wrap but the Munter has much better friction.

That's good advice from Joe. The carabiner break was a standard rap method back in the day. It's simple, safe, and doesn't hose up your rope.

I've used the biner-brake method, but the friction was less than confidence inspiring. I rapped second and called for firemans belay. If the situation arises again, i'll probably use the munter because it's easier to rig/check, requires less equipment, and seems more controllable.

Has anyone tried rigging their doubled rappel rope with a biner-block, the same way you would if you were rappeling on a grigri, and rappeled on a single strand munter? Would this help prevent the dreaded rope twists?

Allen Corneau wrote: You don't usually choose to use a Munter for a rappel, it's something you would use if you don't have any better options. Yes, I've rapped on a Munter once but only because all I had left was a single locker. I could have done a military-style biner wrap but the Munter has much better friction.

Given a choice between rappelling on a Munter hitch or some carabiner contraption, I would choose the later.

you can always use more carabiners in your carabiner break if you need to add friction.
A dulfersitz or an arm-wrap rappel works great for short steps on moderate terrain.

For steep terrain, the carabiner-brake bar rack is probably the best, with the munter in second.

I find it interesting that people say that the munter makes a mess of the ropes. Learn to use it right and you wont get any twists and it works really well. With that said if you want to brake in the standard hand down by your side position of an ATC, try a super munter, it puts a second wrap on the rope so it untwists the twist that the munter puts in. The Super Munter also gives you a ton more friction...
Dallen

Assuming you have a team of two clinbing, the first person can go down on the munter and the second on their standard tube device. The second person's device helps to straighten out any kinks.

I used a munter rapping off the first pitch of mental physics because I had left my device on my pack gear loop and not my harness. There was no real rope kink.

The munter provides a lot of friction, it is easy to check, and it's simple to rig. Keep it simple, the last thing you want to do is mess around with a way to rap that you're not used to.

Whatever method you end up using, practice it!

Back on track, you can use a steel rappel ring as a sticht plate but you'll be feeding the rope and going super slow.

Sunny-D wrote:...Learn to use it right and you wont get any twists and it works really well. With that said if you want to brake in the standard hand down by your side position of an ATC, try a super munter, it puts a second wrap on the rope so it untwists the twist that the munter puts in. The Super Munter also gives you a ton more friction... Dallen

I haven't done any full-length raps a munter, just some very short practice raps, so i can't speak to the twists/tangles or lack thereof- but you say to "rig it right" - what do you mean, how are people rigging it wrong? Are you using double ropes as per a normal rappel, or are you using a single strand? Can the "super-munter" you recommend even be done on a double rope?

Body Rappel

Tom Grummon wrote:

WWBGD? What Would Bear Grylls Do?

I would avoid doing a biner brake rappel with odd shaped wire gates and instead would stick to standard ovals.

A bunch of different options-

storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe…

Also- the munter definitely kinks your rope but you can minimize the twisting by trying to keep both strands in a linear line as much as possible.

Just have your partner lower you with their atc and then they can rap normal.

Tristan B wrote:Just have your partner lower you with their atc and then they can rap normal.

+1 This would have saved me a lot of hassle in the past.

Tom Grummon wrote:

dulfersitz I believe it is called......basic mountaineering skill; but guess it is not taught much to sport climbers these days/;-(

The #9 hexcentric is the perfect size to be used as a tube-style device. It also makes for a pretty good hammer, so I always carry it with my nut tool. On the other hand, I think if you've already consumed all of the other carabiners on which you racked everything and attached to slings and so forth, the munther would not be so bad. Carabiner break works really well too.

If you happen to carry a rap ring on you, they often will do the trick and don't twist the rope like a munter (especially if you have multiple raps in a row).