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 ADVANCED
High Energy Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diet of Worms T,TR 
Imp-Passible Crack T 
Neutron Star T,TR 

Diet of Worms 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2003

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Leaning out to move around the roof to the short o...

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  • Description 

    This is the prominent line that catches your eye up the large dihedral of the crag. Short, yep, but fun. Pump, commitment, gear placements all packed into 25 feet of climbing.

    This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up. Obscure, yes. Long, no. Fun, Yes.

    Easier than Proton and Neutron Star but full value. Fire up this corner with good holds. Its brief steepness at the crux requires more muscle than technique. Good pro minimizes the flying. It's over quickly but likely you've broken a sweat, eh? 11a, doubt it (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists); however in some locales when the ratings run a bit soft, it might be rated such. Gives you respect for those who tread here before thee.

    Protection 

    To a #4 Friend. There is room for a yellow Alien, 2 x #2 Friend, #3 Friend, red Alien, #1 1/2 Friend. #3 1/2 Friend, orange Alien and tree for anchor.


    Photos of Diet of Worms Slideshow Add Photo
    The hand crack turns to wide here, and it gets perplexing. Either thrash or quickly find a trick.
    The hand crack turns to wide here, and it gets per...

    Comments on Diet of Worms Add Comment
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    By matthew sawyer
    May 16, 2003

    I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 18, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb.

    Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware!