Diet of Worms 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on May 17, 2003 |
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Leaning out to move around the roof to the short o...
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Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the prominent line that catches your eye up the large dihedral of the crag. Short, yep, but fun. Pump, commitment, gear placements all packed into 25 feet of climbing.
This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up. Obscure, yes. Long, no. Fun, Yes.
Easier than Proton and Neutron Star but full value. Fire up this corner with good holds. Its brief steepness at the crux requires more muscle than technique. Good pro minimizes the flying. It's over quickly but likely you've broken a sweat, eh? 11a, doubt it (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists); however in some locales when the ratings run a bit soft, it might be rated such. Gives you respect for those who tread here before thee.
Protection To a #4 Friend. There is room for a yellow Alien, 2 x #2 Friend, #3 Friend, red Alien, #1 1/2 Friend. #3 1/2 Friend, orange Alien and tree for anchor.
The hand crack turns to wide here, and it gets per...
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| Comments on Diet of Worms |
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By matthew sawyer
May 16, 2003
| I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2005
rating: 5.10b
| Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb.
Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware! |
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