Diesel Driver 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Kanzler, Terry Kennedy, Fall 1976 |
| Submitted By: | T. Gittins on Jun 7, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Diesel Driver. Anchors are to the left w...
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Description Deisel Driver is the striking wide crack on the north side of the blackline butress. Some feel that this climb is a bit of a sandbag, but the gear is bomber, so go ahead and send it! After a few overhangs that require some wide jamming technique, step right to a chain anchor or continue to the top of the formation. Shares anchor with if peterbuilts could prance (5.12).
Location follow the approach to blackline, and continue around the corner past blackline, past raven's roost (5.9) and callis' warts and corns (5.9 R?) to a steep wide crack. route begins with 15 feet of easy 5th class before turning steep. crystal delight (5.7) and fire escape (5.9) are furthur up the hill for more moderate galley classics.
Protection standard rack with a few extra wide peices
| Comments on Diesel Driver |
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By W.S.
From: Montana
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| All you hear about Diesel Driver is that it's sandbagged, but it's actually a really great crack climb. Tell yer friends. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Aug 9, 2011
| Thanks for correcting the spelling Ty. |
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 1, 2012
| Not 70 feet at all. More like 135 so you will need to use a intermediate rap station about half way down on the left side and it isn't top ropeable so you will need to bring your partner up. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jul 3, 2012
| Not sure if Ty (the one posting above, not the OP) is thinking of the same route... I have always climbed the route and easily lowered/ran TR laps with a 70m rope and maybe even a 60. Maybe not 70, but most certainly not 135 feet. No need for 2 ropes. |
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 3, 2012
| Could be if you go to a right anchor set that you don't need to use the longer rope but if you top out on the buttress it is at least 135 feet long. The topo I added shows how I did the route. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jul 3, 2012
| I guess I've always just pulled the roof and used a newer set of anchors out to the right (on top of the route If Peterbuilts Could Prance which also makes for a fun TR lap). |
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 3, 2012
| So what we are saying is the top gets a little pick your own adventurish. Go left for a longer route that does lessen down in difficulty or head right to be able to set up a toprope. |
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Sep 12, 2012
| Its been about 10 years since I climbed it, but I remember taking it to the top. It is a long pitch and classic. Stopping short, you didn't finish the route. |
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