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The Diedre Area
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Diedre 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J.Cote D. Arey FFA J. Cote B. Read
Page Views: 9,487
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Bernadette following last pitch of Diedre, 08/2007...

Description 

This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.

Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...

Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.

Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.

Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.


Location 

Look for the birch tree corner above then locate the triple corner steps below.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot.



Photos of Diedre Slideshow Add Photo
Kayte Knower seconds the last pitch of Diedre.
Kayte Knower seconds the last pitch of Diedre.
clipping the p2 crux piton
clipping the p2 crux piton
Starting the Crux overhang traverse
Starting the Crux overhang traverse
Tim Martel on the last pitch after exiting the rad jam crack (seen from above in Brian Post's photo... The route ends at the pine tree seen in the upper left corner of the photo... <br /> <br />Pardon the butt shot,i thought the picture gave perspective to the route...
Tim Martel on the last pitch after exiting the rad...
Scan from Websters' book (2nd Edition). It's 5.9!
Scan from Websters' book (2nd Edition). It's 5.9!
Tim Martel leading up the 3rd pitch jam crack... another climber above on the birch tree...
Tim Martel leading up the 3rd pitch jam crack... a...
Tim on the low crux P4
Tim on the low crux P4
Richard styling the final hand crack.
Richard styling the final hand crack.
diedre 3rd pitch
diedre 3rd pitch
Comments on Diedre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 22, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A must do for the 5.10- Trad climber.
This is my favorite 5.10 by far at Cathedral

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 14, 2007

My first climb at Catherdal. The first pitch is a mossy affair, not to tough. The second pitch, starts off up cracks on the left side of the overhand. Strenuous moves under the roof lead to a stem and good jug to belay ledge (5.9+/10a) There is an old piton under the roof that you don't want to clip but probably will. P3 takes you up a strenuous hand crack past a birch tree (growing right out of crack)up to a nice belay (5.8). P4 is easy 5th class to belay right below the final overhanging crack. This goes easier than it looks at 5.9. A good bit of beta here is the sling off to right to use as a directional to keep the rope out of a vary devious narrowing crack. Great potential for a stuck rope. continue on to the final overhang (5.9) and the top. Walk off North.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 5, 2009

Nice tip with the sling directional... i always placed a nut above the overhang in a crack to the left for the same purpose but either way will keep your rope out of a crack that has claimed a few....

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 15, 2010

Wasn't Diedre always a 5.9? Funny how the longer you wait, the better the climber you become!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 7, 2010

Ya- classic NH it's 5.9 except for the crux move.

By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Jul 17, 2010

This can be a very wet route. Leaders should be careful to protect the second on the roof crux as placing gear too far left or high has serious swing potential for the follower.

By Andrew Mertens
From: Hanover, NH
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I'm calling this a 5.9+ cause I thought it was harder than 10a.

By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 15, 2011

5.9

By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Very short crux...nothing special...I thought it was 5.9. The last pitch, however is phenomenal and not as hard as it looked from the belay.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Dec 16, 2013

Glad to see the route was downgraded from 9+ to .10a. I never thought it was that hard anyway. (If this doesn't make any sense to you, welcome to North Conway---and if you think this is confusing, go to the Daks...LOL)

By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 17, 2013

9+.. perfect. now try Budapest next door...Jimmie Dunn 5.10 "triple plus"

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 22, 2013

Peter- That might be my favorite comment on mountain project ever :)