Mountain Project: Climbing Cathedral Ledge

This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.

Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...

Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.

Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.

Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.

Comments on Diedre

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a

A must do for the 5.10- Trad climber.
This is my favorite 5.10 by far at Cathedral

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 14, 2007

My first climb at Catherdal. The first pitch is a mossy affair, not to tough. The second pitch, starts off up cracks on the left side of the overhand. Strenuous moves under the roof lead to a stem and good jug to belay ledge (5.9+/10a) There is an old piton under the roof that you don't want to clip but probably will. P3 takes you up a strenuous hand crack past a birch tree (growing right out of crack)up to a nice belay (5.8). P4 is easy 5th class to belay right below the final overhanging crack. This goes easier than it looks at 5.9. A good bit of beta here is the sling off to right to use as a directional to keep the rope out of a vary devious narrowing crack. Great potential for a stuck rope. continue on to the final overhang (5.9) and the top. Walk off North.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 5, 2009

Nice tip with the sling directional... i always placed a nut above the overhang in a crack to the left for the same purpose but either way will keep your rope out of a crack that has claimed a few....

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 15, 2010

Wasn't Diedre always a 5.9? Funny how the longer you wait, the better the climber you become!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 7, 2010

Ya- classic NH it's 5.9 except for the crux move.

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2010

This can be a very wet route. Leaders should be careful to protect the second on the roof crux as placing gear too far left or high has serious swing potential for the follower.

By Andrew Mertens
From: Hanover, NH
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+

I'm calling this a 5.9+ cause I thought it was harder than 10a.

By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 15, 2011

5.9

By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.9

Very short crux...nothing special...I thought it was 5.9. The last pitch, however is phenomenal and not as hard as it looked from the belay.

Diedre

5.10a

Description

Location

Protection

Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
	ADVANCED