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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J.Cote D. Arey FFA J. Cote B. Read
Page Views: 11,998
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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Kayte Knower seconds the last pitch of Diedre.


This route is traditional given a 5.9+ rating, but it could just as easily be a modern 5.10. My vote is not to split hairs because they both mean the same thing at Cathedral.

Diedre is possibly the best climb of the grade on the cliff as it offers well-protected, full-length, and full value, mostly crack climbing. Climb it, enough said...

Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the "Triple Corners." Off width cracks up a series of ledges to a comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (5.9+ or 5.10a depending on who ya ask) Climb up the main corner until it is possible to move right under the roof(use your feet) past an old pin. Clip it. Then mantel on to a ledge to the right of the roof. That was the crux. Belay at a couple of pins and gear on the ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Climb the picture perfect corner crack. Jam and stem (strenuous work for a 5.8 pitch) past a birch tree growing out of the crack. Belay from the top on small gear.

Pitch 4: (5.4) Make easy moves right along the wide, hand crack to the blueberry ledge, a cool ledge that could sleep a party of 20.

Pitch 5: (5.9) It won't take you long to find the absolutely perfect, hand crack heading up from the ledge. Follow the crack to a tricky exit move and lower angle climbing up to one more bulge (another 5.9 move) jam up to one last mantel. Belay from a tree and take in the scenery.


Look for the birch tree corner above then locate the triple corner steps below.


Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot.

Photos of Diedre Slideshow Add Photo
clipping the p2 crux piton
clipping the p2 crux piton
Tim Martel on the last pitch after exiting the rad...
Tim Martel on the last pitch after exiting the rad...
Starting the Crux overhang traverse
Starting the Crux overhang traverse
Tim Martel leading up the 3rd pitch jam crack... a...
Tim Martel leading up the 3rd pitch jam crack... a...
diedre 3rd pitch
diedre 3rd pitch
Tim on the low crux P4
Tim on the low crux P4
Richard styling the final hand crack.
Richard styling the final hand crack.
Scan from Websters' book (2nd Edition). It's 5.9!
Scan from Websters' book (2nd Edition). It's 5.9!
Gail B following the crux. Much easier for me, I'm...
Gail B following the crux. Much easier for me, I'm...

Comments on Diedre Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2015
By Ladd
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A must do for the 5.10- Trad climber.
This is my favorite 5.10 by far at Cathedral
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 14, 2007

My first climb at Catherdal. The first pitch is a mossy affair, not to tough. The second pitch, starts off up cracks on the left side of the overhand. Strenuous moves under the roof lead to a stem and good jug to belay ledge (5.9+/10a) There is an old piton under the roof that you don't want to clip but probably will. P3 takes you up a strenuous hand crack past a birch tree (growing right out of crack)up to a nice belay (5.8). P4 is easy 5th class to belay right below the final overhanging crack. This goes easier than it looks at 5.9. A good bit of beta here is the sling off to right to use as a directional to keep the rope out of a vary devious narrowing crack. Great potential for a stuck rope. continue on to the final overhang (5.9) and the top. Walk off North.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 5, 2009

Nice tip with the sling directional... i always placed a nut above the overhang in a crack to the left for the same purpose but either way will keep your rope out of a crack that has claimed a few....
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Mar 15, 2010

Wasn't Diedre always a 5.9? Funny how the longer you wait, the better the climber you become!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 7, 2010

Ya- classic NH it's 5.9 except for the crux move.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Jul 17, 2010

This can be a very wet route. Leaders should be careful to protect the second on the roof crux as placing gear too far left or high has serious swing potential for the follower.
By Andrew Mertens
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'm calling this a 5.9+ cause I thought it was harder than 10a.
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 15, 2011

By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very short crux...nothing special...I thought it was 5.9. The last pitch, however is phenomenal and not as hard as it looked from the belay.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Dec 16, 2013

Glad to see the route was downgraded from 9+ to .10a. I never thought it was that hard anyway. (If this doesn't make any sense to you, welcome to North Conway---and if you think this is confusing, go to the Daks...LOL)
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 17, 2013

9+.. perfect. now try Budapest next door...Jimmie Dunn 5.10 "triple plus"
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 22, 2013

Peter- That might be my favorite comment on mountain project ever :)
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Aug 18, 2014

The giant face eating spider, presumably named Diedre, that liked to dangle from the lip of the roof on pitch 2 daring climbers to pass beneath her has been vanquished by a quickdraw, since christened "Sting," and was last seen scurrying to safety amongst the verdant ledges of pitch 1. Though the mosquito count may be higher, long may this route be free from such arachnids of terror.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
May 11, 2015

Really excellent route, with three of the pitches (P2, P3, and P5) being just wonderful. And even the muddy, wet, offwidth-y start had a certain kind of charm.

I linked P2 and P3, but I can't recommend it (unavoidable rope drag). Linking P1 and P2 is possible. If you placed a directional at the top of P3 (e.g. small nut high off the ledge), you could also potentially link P3 and P4.

If your follower falls on the crux traverse after cleaning the pin, he may get stuck in no-man's-land on the right wall, so have a plan on how to deal with that possibility.

My buddy fell on the pin yesterday 5/10/15 and it held. As rusty as it is, it's nice to be able to essentially top rope the crux!
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 23, 2015

What a fun climb. I agree that the last pitch climbed much easier than it looked, although it has a little surprise waiting for you at the top out. I thought the crux pitch was strange and difficult, but, you can practically do it on TR if you place a piece right before you traverse. The birch pitch is fun too; it's steep and requires technique if you don't want to pump out. Good stemming will get you all the way to the tree.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Aug 31, 2015

Definitely place something to keep the rope out of the crack on the last pitch, I got right to the final mantle and couldn't pull the rope up! Had to down climb and placed a blue alien out left and it worked great. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to place a piece high after the crux on pitch 2 so your second doesn't take a big swing if they blow the mantle after unclipping the piton.
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