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Penon d'Ifach
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Costa Blanca S 
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To Have and To Hold S 
Valencianos T 
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Diedra UBSA 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: percious on Apr 7, 2014

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Kristin Knudson climbs to the P3 belay of Diedra U...

Description 

This über-classic climbs the south face of the Peñon D'Ifach direct before veering off left to finish. A series of dihedrals and some polished face climbing leads to a pinnacle before launching through the crux, making a short rappel, and finishing in a polished, but stellar overhanging dihedral. Sparingly protected by bolts, you may decide to bring some extra gear, but I found it hard to place and somewhat unreliable in the bullet-proof polished glass limestone.
Here is a description of the route by pitches:

1) Angle up and right to a bolted belay below a dihedral. (4th)
2) Climb the first dihedral to a belay in a cave. (5+)
3) Face climb through the naturally cemented-on holds (stellar but a bit runout) Back to the dihedral to a large belay ledge with a bush. (6a)
4) Climb up through the cracks to the right and back into an ugly dihedral, then belay at the top of a chockstone. (5)
5) (6a variation) Face climb directly through wonderful, but polished heucoes through a small cave and around two more to a large cave. At the large cave, head left to find the belays and ultimately the rappel anchors.
6) Make a short (10m) rappel to a ledge and head to the left side of the ledge to a bolted belay.
7) Traverse left to a dihedral, up through a bush and left to anchors (4+)
8) Finish on the final dihedral with an overhang to anchors at the top. (5)
9) Scramble to the summit. (4th)


Location 

Head left up the ramp from the end of the tourist path. You will see a large dihedral above, head left some more, to the base of Costa Blanca. From here the route starts right, after a ramp.


Protection 

Bolted, but sparingly. A few cams are useful to place intermediately. Mid-sized will serve you well. Expect some run-outs even if you bring some gear.



Photos of Diedra UBSA Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Perkins at the P5 Belay.
Chris Perkins at the P5 Belay.
Chris Perkins leads the final technical pitch on Diedra UBSA, Calpe Spain.  Photo by José Ortega.
BETA PHOTO: Chris Perkins leads the final technical pitch on D...
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
View from P3 belay.
View from P3 belay.
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