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Die Maenner von Memmental 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Oct 19, 2008

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Mathijs K concluding the magnificent third pitch.

Description 

A stellar route, defined by its wildly exposed, crux third pitch.

Pitch 1: 6b, up a steep slab on reasonably good holds.
Pitch 2: 6c+, continues up the slab to its end and then into steeper terrain above on good holds. There is a distinct crux move just above the end of the slabby section.
Pitch 3: 7a, from a comfortable ledge (anchor shared with the Blauer Kaefer), the route traverses right, onto an overhanging slab of rock that juts out into space. On the slab, the line continues up and to the right. The holds are all there and the moves are fairly straightforward, but it is pumpy as hell, and the exposure is extraordinary.
Pitch 4: 6c+ 1 p.a., vertical, compact rock with very small, sharp holds defines this pitch. The one point of aid is fairly early on, and the difficulty of the pitch comes in the couple of meters that follow, on very thin, very sharp holds, before traversing up and right on somewhat easier ground.
Pitch 5: 6c+, another good pitch, again on vertical sharp rock, slightly less compact and more featured than the previous pitch.


Location 

Pass by the meteorit sector and traverse up and to the right past a giant recess in the wall (there is often a waterfall here). Follow a clear trail up to the base of the rock. The start of the climb is marked in yellow, just a few meters to the right of the Blauer Kaefer route.


With regards to the abseil, take note of the comments to the area!

Protection 

The route is very well bolted. No complementary protection is required.


Photos of Die Maenner von Memmental Slideshow Add Photo
Abseiling - this shot is from the anchor at the end of pitch three, and gives a nice perspective on the steepness and exposure of that pitch.
Abseiling - this shot is from the anchor at the en...
Pitch three, from above
Pitch three, from above
Mathijs K powering through the magnificent third pitch.
Mathijs K powering through the magnificent third p...
Pitch two, heading into the crux.
Pitch two, heading into the crux.
Dani following p3, about to grab the final jug
Dani following p3, about to grab the final jug
Pitch one, pulling up through the crux.
Pitch one, pulling up through the crux.
Start of p4
Start of p4
Money shot of p3
Money shot of p3
Exit, pitch three
Exit, pitch three

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