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Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
Routes Sorted
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Adam's Rib S 
Backpaddle S 
Black Tube, The S 
Brown Hangers S 
Crystal Jug S 
Dick Van Dike S 
Law School S 
Love Canal S 
Rasp, The S 
Shag S 
Unknown S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dick Van Dike 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Snively, Gillett, Huntsman
Page Views: 1,563
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jun 1, 2001

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Description 

Given the name of the adjacent route to the left, "Law School" we were tempted to call this one "Walking the Green Mile". This is currently the furthest east (right) route on the rock. Scramble up to the first clip and wander past a few more hard to see clips until you can step left into a large, right-facing dihedral lined in fist-sized and larger quartz crystals, (some of questionable solidity). Step back right at the top, surmount a short headwall (crux), and get on the "Green Mile". This is a long, very fine grained, green intrusion that the rest of the climb follows. We were all tempted to use the fat crystals to either side, but in the end we all "Walked the Mile". Be aware that the clips are a long way apart through this section and several are impossible to see until your right on top of them. I would not suggest this route to a 5.9 leader whose only experience is in "Sport Bolted" climbs. The climbing up "The Mile" is probably only in the 5.7 range, but the leader needs to be comfortable running it out a bit. (As an aside, we also top-roped a direct connection to the headwall section, avoiding the traverse left into the dihedral staying well to the right. Excellent edging and if bolted would only take 3 clips or so as a variation, 10a/b, and would be a stupendous route.)

Protection 

14- 16 clips plus anchors.

Descent 

It's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "Law School" directly below to the west, down 75').


Photos of Dick Van Dike Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the belay on the upper section of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.
Nearing the belay on the upper section of Dick Van...
Self-portrait on the lower half of Dick Van Dike, Jug Dome.
Self-portrait on the lower half of Dick Van Dike, ...
Cool crystalline intrusions.
Cool crystalline intrusions.

Comments on Dick Van Dike Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Feb 20, 2002

Sorry, forgot to mention, it's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "Law School" directly below to the west, down 75').
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 5, 2003

Good route harder towards the bottom, I would rate the top 5.5 or 5.6. Very good climb for someone who can easily do a 5.8.
By joell
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2004

This is a great route as a first 5.9 lead. The bolts are surprisingly close together, so the comfort level is quite high for a 5.9 lead.

After climbing the quartz crystals, there are two variations for getting back up onto the face. Lie-back the flake for the easier way up. You'll see it when you get there.
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Jul 31, 2014

Closely enough bolted in the bottom (more difficult) section to be comfortable for the new 5.9 leader.

The large crystal inclusion in the middle seemed solid today, 7/31/14.

The upper part does have some spacing between the bolts as described, but it is over considerably easier terrain (see the comment above), especially if the leader chooses to use the crystals and sidepulls bordering the "green mile" section.

A viable plan B for when the rock through Law School's first four bolts is wet.