Dick and Jeanie 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Nathan Kutcher 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Aug 8, 2004 |
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Jay on Dick and Jeanne, July 2005.
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Description Locate the next bolted route right of Self Mutilation. The climb is identified by thin cracks up a steep wall.
Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin, Dick and Jeanie features a steep start and a bouldery crux. The climbing remains asthetic despite its short height. A popular project route, given its straightforward moves and beautiful position.
Protection bolts
BETA PHOTO: Climb the parallel cracks.
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Butt shot of Jay leading, July 2005. Thanks Rhoad...
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| Comments on Dick and Jeanie |
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By Rob Riggleman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 30, 2006
| I noticed there is a bolt above the anchor...anyone have any info on the upper section? Are there more bolts, mixed pro, etc? |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 4, 2006
| Rob,
I believe the guys who put these up came back and lowered the anchors on several of these routes. I think because the rock is a little more sugary up top. |
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11+
| This route is highly temperature and humidity dependent. First time I was on it was about 90F with high humidity, and we thought it was mid-5.12 for sure, very hard crux and the crimp out right was completely useless to make the crux move. Two weeks later, 20 degrees cooler and breezy, and it felt 11b. Fun route. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Great route up some amazing features. Felt like a mid 5.12 until I figured out the beta. The bottom is super powerful to a technical crux. Bolts are place terribly. Sketchy to clip the second bolt. |
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