Diary of a Dope Fiend  V8

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Type:  Boulder, 25 feet Consensus:  V8 [details] FA:  Scott Cosgrove Submitted By:  Will S on Jan 30, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This problem is a super classic, and perhaps the best problem of its grade in Joshua Tree. Essentially Caveman's big, secluded brother. Climb the sustained roof on jams, edges and heel hooks with a dynamic finish on sloper slapping. Some trickery allows you to completely recover before launching into the final sequence. The plastic-trained climber who loves gymnastic moves on relatively large holds will adore this one.

Location 

At the far right side of Alister's Cave is a chalked jug and overhead handjam slot. Sit start and work through the roof ending at obvious jugs in a break just above the dismal finishing slopers.

Protection 

A single pad will suffice, but have a spotter who can drag it as you climb. If you're solo and at your limit two pads would be nice.