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Routes in Pennyroyal Arches
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Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Multiplication T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resisting Arrest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Whippersnapper T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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White Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ben Bysma, Jim Cunningham (Sept, '85) |
| Page Views: | 793 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Sep 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a one-star slab climb on the right end of the Pennyroyal Arches. It climbs up the blank low-angle face to the left of the White Slab route (a 5.4 up the prominent left facing arching corner). The few difficult sections on the climb are fairly well protected, but expect runouts on 5.6 and easier terrain.
Pitch 1 heads straight up the low angle slab to a high first bolt. A horizontal crack provides more pro (either .5-.75" or a 3" cam works good) and then a second bolt protects the steeper 5.7/5.8 terrain before the anchor.
Pitch 2 has the crux right off the anchor but it felt a little light for 5.9. After smearing up and left to the first bolt the angle lessens and the rest of the pitch is a cruise. This pitch is supposed to have 3 bolts but I must have missed one. In any case there's good natural gear on the upper half of the pitch and then a 5.6 runout to the anchor.
Pitch 3 climbs straight up off the belay past one bolt and then more runout easy friction to the big ledge.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. It's too bad the anchors are not in different locations because this climb would be better if you could do it in 2 long pitches and then descend with 2 long rappels.
Pitch 1 heads straight up the low angle slab to a high first bolt. A horizontal crack provides more pro (either .5-.75" or a 3" cam works good) and then a second bolt protects the steeper 5.7/5.8 terrain before the anchor.
Pitch 2 has the crux right off the anchor but it felt a little light for 5.9. After smearing up and left to the first bolt the angle lessens and the rest of the pitch is a cruise. This pitch is supposed to have 3 bolts but I must have missed one. In any case there's good natural gear on the upper half of the pitch and then a 5.6 runout to the anchor.
Pitch 3 climbs straight up off the belay past one bolt and then more runout easy friction to the big ledge.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes. It's too bad the anchors are not in different locations because this climb would be better if you could do it in 2 long pitches and then descend with 2 long rappels.
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