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Diana 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Art Gran, Pete Vlachos
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010
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Description 

1. Climb up the face to a grassy ledge. Go left around the boulders then follow the cleanest section of rock straight up to the GT ledge. 5.4, 150.

2. Look for a multi-forked tree that is about 10 feet left or so of a short, right-facing corner and about 80-100 feet right of the big Updraft corner. Climb the face (there is a short vertical crack) to an indistinct notch; the face below the notch can't be missed as the crack is obvious and there is a thin layer of dried bird shit on the face. (Not too bad, but your tastes may differ) After the notch go up 10 feet or so, drift right a bit and then back up and left to a prominent, well-chalked horizontal Use this horizontal to move over the bulge (crux), then traverse left and up for about 25 feet to an obvious V notch. After the notch, the top is not too far.

The first 40 feet or so of Pitch 1 is a bit dirty and indistinct, but the face climbing after that, up to the GT ledge, is fun.

The second pitch doesn't follow a line. But the moves are nice, the protection is good, there are some minor route finding challenges that increase the fun factor - and I've rarely seen anyone on it.


Location 

About 75 feet down the hill and right of the start of Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK). Look for a small, dirty open book. Diana starts on the face 10 feet or so from the open book, just before the trail levels off.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack



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By Tabo
May 3, 2013

Instead of the 5.4 1st pitch, try starting on Unholy Wick. Up to the GT ledge, then walk left to the 2nd pitch of Diana. "Unholy Diana" doesn't sound like much but it's a lot of fun.