Diamonds Aren't Forever 5.10c
| 436 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | 2004, David Lent, Nick Gully |
| Submitted By: | Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010 |
| |
Staring up at all the underclings
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Strenuous, undercling, slab climbing. This is a unique route that looks easier than it is.
Start on good holds next to a dead tree. Pull over the starting bulge and scramble up low angle slab to the first bolt. Follow the maze of downward facing holds up the slightly off-vertical slab.
Well bolted and good fun although it looks like a hold or two has broken off and a few more could be poised to pop. Belayer be warned.
Location The leftmost bolted line.
Protection Bolts to fixed anchors
pickin away at Diamonds Aren't Forever
|
Rhiannon about to head into the weirdness
| |
| Comments on Diamonds Aren't Forever |
|
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 8, 2012
| Perhaps this is just me, but if you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, this feels like mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (i.e., cheat by using some holds from Bee Hold, the neighboring route), it feels like the stated grade 5.10c.
I've never been able to climb this "direct" and have always cheated out right. Anyone else find this to be the case? |
By Tim Dufrane
Jul 21, 2012
| Jim, I'd have to agree with you on that. Felt stout for a 5.10c, I'd push it to a 5.11. Fell off a few times, but I made it up without using anything from Bee Hold. Lots of compression moves and laybacks while on raw fingertips. But for the difficulty, what a seriously fun and well protected route. The two cruxes are extremely well protected (waist level falls). |
|
RSS Feed
1518 more...
Slideshow
