|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||2004, David Lent, Nick Gully|
|Submitted By:||Ethan Thompson on May 18, 2010|
|Comments on Diamonds Aren't Forever||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jim Lawyer
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perhaps this is just me, but if you restrict yourself to the line of bolts, this feels like mid 5.11. If you climb to the right of the bolts (i.e., cheat by using some holds from Bee Hold, the neighboring route), it feels like the stated grade 5.10c.
I've never been able to climb this "direct" and have always cheated out right. Anyone else find this to be the case?
By Tim Dufrane
Jul 21, 2012
|Jim, I'd have to agree with you on that. Felt stout for a 5.10c, I'd push it to a 5.11. Fell off a few times, but I made it up without using anything from Bee Hold. Lots of compression moves and laybacks while on raw fingertips. But for the difficulty, what a seriously fun and well protected route. The two cruxes are extremely well protected (waist level falls).|