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 ADVANCED
Bond Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Detachable Penis TR 
Diamonds Are Forever T,TR 
Dr. No  S,TR 
Easter Island TR 
Goldfinger T 

Diamonds Are Forever 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Delap
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 28, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Diamonds Are Forever

Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbs the tallest part of this crag and through roof. tricky routefinding.

Location 

15 yards right of Goldfinger, below the high roof.

Protection 

Standard rack. Anchors.


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By P. Sully
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

FA: Paul DeLapp, Paul Sullivan 1993. PD led this route ground-up onsite and originally graded it 5.8. A hold did break at the upper roof crux bumping the grade up.

route climbs steep crack/corner past rock "spike". Pull through small roof and head up and slightly left over tricky rock. Then climb straight up, past second "spike" to roof (nice yellow TCU here) and through to anchors.

Super fun, a bit runout at lower crux. nice TR