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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Diamonds and Rust 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Olsen, Bob D'Antonio, Nickie Kelly, 11/26/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,012
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Nov 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Secure in the layback.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Diamonds and Rust is a new sport route on the big shelf left of Heterohedral. Start about 10' right of Edge of Reality and 20' left of Heterohedral. This is the same start as Night Moves.

Step up and clip a bolt on the right, and traverse right to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge at its top. Climb a tricky slab past an overlap (crux), and continue straight up to the anchor.

Location 

The route starts on a big shelf about 20' left of Heterohedral and 10' right of Edge of Reality. This is the same start as for Night Moves.

To get there from the main Bihedral area, traverse left on the narrow exposed ledge past Dan's Line and Group Therapy. Be very careful. Not a good approach for kids or pets. A safer approach can be made by coming up from the Left Side area, but this is a long way from the main Bihedral area.

An anchor has been installed on the right side of the shelf, so you can do a diagonal rappel back to the main Bihedral area instead of reversing the exposed traverse; see ??.

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.


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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2009

Fun route, most of it is easier than 5.9. Use caution when lowering, as it is a bit of a diagonal line, and you can swing all the way over the Heterohedral.

There is a new route right of this line which goes over the Heterohedral roof.
By Josh M.
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2009

Great route! We noticed three or four freshly bolted routes on the back of the spire-like outcropping to the left of Diamonds and Rust... do we have to wait for Bob's book (come onnnnn Aug 4!) to learn about these, too?
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route! I didn't give it that much in terms of stars, but it has interesting climbing really - plenty of holds, but along with awkward angles and slab commitment required.