Diamond and Coal
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D&C climbs both sides of an aesthetic, hourglass-shaped feature plastered to the main wall, as well as the adjoining left face and upper left-facing corner (so as to maintain its' independence from North Country Club Crack on the left). This route serves up no definitive crux, just solid, well-protected face climbing with a very short and enjoyable crack section at the top of the route right before you move left to the anchor.
Unlike the other noteworthy routes at this craglet, Diamond and Coal is NOT a crack climb. In fact, it would be more fitting to find this route at the Gunks littered with non-stop traffic and not on a sleepy roadside cliff in the heart of the Adirondacks. Nevertheless, Diamond and Coal is a hidden gem among the harder, more traveled lines in Keene Valley and should not be missed even if you climb harder grades. And it is also a fun climb for beginners, and it is a great way to warm down at the end of the day.
Locate the hourglass-shaped feature on the right side of the crag. Diamond and Coal begins on the right side of this feature, then crosses over it to the left side when the first opportunity arises.
Gear. Nothing larger than a red Camalot.
Tree anchor at the top.
Jul 9, 2007
Shares an anchor with NCCC. Tree is currently slung with 3 1" tied runners and 2 rap rings. As of July 6 '07 they are in good shape and the tree is bomber.
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Did the bouldery start 5.7 variation - great route. Lots of horizontals - bring tricams.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 20, 2012
Sleeper climb - 5.7 variation very stiff to start (maybe 8-ish). Great moves, liked it as much as NCCC.