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Snake Buttress
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Dial 911 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 4,367
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Adam Bomb bearing down on the high crux of Dial 91...


Dial is one of the Most sought after five thirteens at The New, and deservedly so. This route is an absolute classic up some of the nicest sandstone I've ever seen. Start climbing up the easy slab for 25 feet to gain the start of the long series of crux moves up the perfect orange and black streaked face.

Crank the first thin crux to gain a rest on some jugs below the first roof. After a nice shake, crank up to the glued on (but original) hold to gain match on a big sloper. Crank up out the final roof with awesome positioning, eventually breaking out left and up to a two bolt station.


Approach Dial from the honey mooners ladder heading up stream. Head straight around some big blocks to the base of the route. The climb to it's right is The Rascist, and the Arete to the left is Mississippi Burning.



Photos of Dial 911 Slideshow Add Photo
The Bomb on the middle portion of Dial.
The Bomb on the middle portion of Dial.
The Bomb on the middle portion of Dial.
The Bomb on the middle portion of Dial.

Comments on Dial 911 Add Comment
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By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 23, 2009

It seems that this route should go under Snake Buttress and not Central Endless, though Snake Butress and several other areas could also go under Central Endless.

EDIT: Thanks for moving it.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Oct 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Extremely sequential, thin climbing. The lower portion of the route which leads to a horizontal break beneath the first roof felt around 12c. This section involved big reaches off of hand foot matches and ended with a large deadpoint. Rest at the break and psych yourself up for what lies ahead. A long lock off to the glued on flake and a hard clip off a slopey rail. Then the redpoint crux, a blind toss to a crimp over the second roof. Savor the easy slab above.
By Blake Cash
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Definitely harder than 12c to the break! the move to the slot is the hardest part of the whole route. Felt 13a to the break then you get everything back and it's maybe 12ft of climbing and you're done. Hard for the grade (for me). One of the best though!
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I agree that the section below the first roof is harder than 12c; it's the meat of the route with the hardest moves. You can get everything back under the first roof, and the moves past it are 12a, tops. Insanely cool route.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

After a re visit I will admit like most that getting to the break under the first roof is 12d maybe 5.12d/5.13a. But being 5'7" I was not able to rest comfortably due to the distance to the footholds. I worked this climb for 6 days over half a season and continually steeled myself for the section after the rest and through the two prominent roofs above. I worked it in typical late spring conditions and the day I redpointed it had been raining eight hours prior and the fog was as thick as pea soup. I was never able to make the section from the rest any easier than 5.12b or 5.12b/c so let's say 5.12. I found the clip from the sloper rail very taxing. The blind sun-in-your-face deadpoint over the final roof to a three finger crimp then match nearby on a tiny credit card edge then huck to a flat rail was worrisome on redpoint (and my mental crux) but perhaps 10+/11- on the dog. When I sent this climb I had never been so mentally at my limit on a rock climb and therefore Dial 911 is my favorite sport climb.
By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Yeah. 13a by itself to the break, in my opinion. Out to the sloper rail is powerful, the moves over the roof are easily 5.12 and not over until you have moved out left past the last bolt. I'd say 13a to the break...then 15-20 feet of 5.12/mid 5.12 and then 5.10 to the anchor. I don't know where I got 12 feet from.

Best 13a I've done anywhere.
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