Diagonemesis 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Mayhew et al, 1989 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | not summer |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Feb 13, 2012 |
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topo and description
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There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. MORE INFO >>>
There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. This wilderness is surrounded by state, reservation, and private land. Permission to drive on an access road through the King Anvil Ranch property is granted by the owner during the months of September through February (access closed March through August). This access road also crosses Arizona State Trust Land. The owner of the King Anvil Ranch and the Arizona Game Fish have provided a sign in station for you to register your visit. Please sign in and sign out at the station. Furthermore the Arizona land managers require that you obtain a recreation permit to drive across Arizona State Trust Land. The application for this permit ($15/year) can be found at:
www.land.state.az.us/programs/natural/rec_permit.pdf
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! MORE INFO >>>
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.
Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10
Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread!
After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!)
Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me.
Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site)
Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10
As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that!
The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark!
There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):
We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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|
Description This unique route climbs the prominent left-diagonaling crack system on the west side of Elephant Dome, roughly in the vicinity of the west-side rap route. It has only seen a few ascents despite being put up over 20 years ago. Scary, runout, and loose in places, it also has some excellent climbing. In particular, the crux 4th pitch is sustained, well-protected and probably one of the best pitches in the canyon. The first pitch is classic Mendoza exfoliating face climbing with 6 bolts and just a couple gear placements for a full ropelength. It will keep your full attention from the first move off the ground all the way to the belay.
See topo for full description. The topo is mostly accurate, although the first rappel length is incorrect (see below), and on pitch 2 it's better to continue to the large ledge for the belay.
The route gets sun starting early afternoon. The hard (and best) climbing is over after the first 4 pitches, so one strategy would be to rap from chains at that point and combine it with something else to maximize sun or shade depending on the temps.
Location Follow the approach to Table Dome, but just before the dome, break off right following cairns that lead toward the right side of Roof Wall. Just below that, a not very obvious series of cairns leads over to the very steep backside of Elephant Dome. Follow the wall until below the obvious left-diagonaling system (see topo).
Descent is the west-side rap (2 ropes). NOTE ONE SIGNIFICANT ERROR ON THE TOPO: THE FIRST RAP HAS BEEN MOVED AND IS NOW 100' INSTEAD OF 70'.
Note also that if you didn't leave anything at the base, you could leave the second rope at home and do the east-side descent, making for a faster trip back to the car.
Protection We brought a single set of cams from 0 tcu to 4 friend, nuts, rps, and some tri-cams. This was perfect. There are some lead bolts so some draws are nice in addition to the usual aresnal of slings. The bolts are over 20 years old but seem in ok shape; on the crux pitch good gear is generally available nearby.
The route follows the prominent left-diagonaling c...
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