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Fisherman's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cheetah T,TR 
Cro-Magnon T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Jane T,TR 
Tarzan T 
Topaz T,TR 
Wizard, The T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Bein & Bob Hall, 1967
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: DFrench on Jun 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the route Diagonal (5.8+) and also incl...


This route climbs the obvious, left-leaning, hand crack that begins roughly 20 feet to the left of Cro-Magnon. The crux moves are relatively close to the ground, so good protection is a must if 5.8+ is your limit.


This route starts 20 feet left of Cro-Magnon on the left side of the Fisherman's Wall. It is also possible to add a short second pitch by continuing up either Wild Women in Love (5.10) or Green Route (5.5).


Standard rack. The emphasis is on medium-size cams. Most people use the small tree at the top of the climb for an anchor, but discretion is advised.

Photos of Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
Dave Custer leading Diagonal, belayed by John.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Custer leading Diagonal, belayed by John.

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By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008

A fun climb that starts steep and moves left with a few funky (and sandy) moves with good gear. A gear anchor will enable you to top-rope it (with directionals). I rapped on the Cro-Mag piton anchor.
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Rack your cams on the left side, since most of the will be placed when you are hanging on a right hand jam.

The start is quite a bit harder than 5.8 due to the rock being so polished by now. Not really a good lead for 5.8 climbers.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Boston, MA
Aug 30, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A very fun, bouldery climb. But calling this 5.8+ is pretty sandbagged. Easily 5.9, and the start moves perhaps even more. Then gets easier and easier, with good holds and jams.
By Robert Hall
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sorry to hear of the polishing of the opening moves, but I guess it's nice to know the climb is popular!

When the climb was first led, the use of the "+" sign was virtually non-existent (except, of course, for the notorious mountain-grade of "5.9+ / A2").

There is a no-hands rest about 1/3 of the way up the crack, where you can slot the wrists of both hands into a constriction and lean back on "bone", resting both forearms and fingers. Certainly if you miss this "rest" (as Kevin did leading the FA), it's 5.8+ or 5.9 (especially driving and removing pitons). Kevin thought it definitely easier than "Bonnie's Roof" (5.9, Gunks) but harder than "Hans' Puss" (5.7, Gunks), and we gave it a 5.8.
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