Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | S. Kimball, R. Joseph, G. Sapp, or C. Luebben |
Page Views: | 8,570 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Jones on May 14, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route is the most popular on Combat and is the easiest to find. When you reach the base via the trail, you will most likely be right at Diagonal or just below it. It is the left-facing corner with the crack going up diagonally. You will need TWO ROPES to rappel from either belay station. This route can be done in either two or three pitches.
Pitch 1: follow the left leaning crack through some great finger jams and sketchy foot moves. The pro here is good if you have small enough cams. You used to go past small tree (now gone), and now you continue around a hump following the diagonal line. A three bolt belay is about another 30 feet (another pitch could be added here to reduce rope drag... continue to the bottom corner of the roof, about 20 feet, and set up a belay at the fixed pin and with some stoppers. I didn't think that this was necessary).
Pitch 2: follow the diagonal line up to the roof. Traverse right underneath it and up into the overhanging flake. The flake widens up into a fist jam (per Kurtz: or undercling), so larger pro is needed. At the top of the flake, pull over it onto the face, and continue up this easy section to a two bolt belay.
Do a double rope rappel (per Kurtz: or single 60m rope rappel) from here to your LAST (P1) belay station... not to the tree that looks like you might be able to reach, because you won't! Then again double rope rappel (or single 60m rope rappel to downclimbable terrain) to the ground from the bolts at your 1st belay station.
This is an awesome climb and is definitely worth doing if you are at Combat Rock.
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