Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bella Lugosi T 
Belly Dancer T 
Bride of Frankenstein TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Count Dracula T 
Diabetics T 
Diagnostics T 
Ground Finale T 
Half Crack T 
Junction Chimney T 
Love at First Bite T 
Music Box T 
One Point Crack T 
That Old Soft Shoe T 
Transylvania Twist T 
Two Point Crack T 

Diagnostics 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,560
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jon McCartie mid-crux on Diagnostics. If the firs...
Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the right side of the Northwest face just right of Count Dracula lies this climb up a left-facing corner with plates and jugs.

A short climb but excellent nonetheless, this features good rock and steep fun moves. A good choice on a warm day as it gets plenty of shade.


Protection 

Pro to 2.5"



Photos of Diagnostics Slideshow Add Photo
Fun climb. Me belayed by Agina Sedler
Fun climb. Me belayed by Agina Sedler
Graham attempting to solo Diagnostics.
Graham attempting to solo Diagnostics.
Diagnostics
Diagnostics
Fun climb. Me belayed by Agina Sedler
Fun climb. Me belayed by Agina Sedler
A bit off the deck.
A bit off the deck.
The opening move...
The opening move...
Scott after a fine trad lead!
Scott after a fine trad lead!
The entire route is in the photo; climber at the base for scale.
BETA PHOTO: The entire route is in the photo; climbe...
Comments on Diagnostics Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 15, 2013
By Rob "rk" Kalinowski
Jul 9, 2002

My first lead climb in J-Tree! Sharp! Tape up and welcome to J-Tree! This route reminds me of the East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon, but this is a more direct line and a more solid, consistant crack. Jam up and go. Eventually, the crack peters out, and it gets "frictiony", so beginner leaders should put in a piece before leaving the crack! Jam and go, and have fun!

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Jul 10, 2002

this route seems harder than 5.6.

By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2003

The start of this climb is somewhat intimidating looking for a 5.6 climb, but the crack eats up pro and good climbing follow for a nice short route. Very fun then as fun downclimb to the right gets you back to the base.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The start was a little hard, physically, as the two walls leaned out to prevent a good stem on the polished rock. Still, the lie-back technique was brute force, but not tricky there, so it was not really a technical move over 5.6 or 5.7- just physically hard.

By Bo Johnston
Feb 9, 2005

This has to be one of the cooler 5.6s in the park. Oh yeah! Walk off down to the right...

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2006

As a corollary to Chris' "A good choice on a warm day as it gets plenty of shade", this is a poor choice on a cold day as it gets no sun whatsoever.

By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

Start the first 10-15' with a stem or a lieback. Stem worked great for me but my legs are a little longer. From there you can get a great stance for most of the rest of the climb by left foot in the crack. The first 15' is the crux and probably more like 5.7 as you need to be sensitive about where you stem - the feet arent that great.

You could pretend the right arete isnt there with huge handholds and climb it like a nice 5.7 hand crack. Its probably 5.5 with the arete/face holds. This is a good route for practicing hand jams.

The "walk off" is a 3rd/4th class patina plate/semi-chimney downclimb or 5th class patina plate downclimb to the climbers right.

By Kevin Craig
Nov 16, 2007

Be judicious with your feet at the start and don't take the grade for granted (if you're leading 5.7 to 9). It is steep an strenusous for several moves at the start with slick feet (despite the very sharp rock for your hands). I blew off but fortunately my gear held (a gold Alien!) and I "only" shredded my fingers on the very sharp rock. Debrided, taped-up and finished the route (and several others over the next few days). Very good climb nonetheless.

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 23, 2008

Fun Climb with a low crux. Nick onsighted. Exciting down climb.

By Gary Schenk
Apr 14, 2008

Got spanked by this climb. I kept blowing it at the crux and flying right off. My girlfriend then tried and got the second piece in, then are friend Don finally finished the lead.

In between our lame attempts, two guys came through and soloed it quite beautifully.

This was a final trip for the season to Josh. I think it was just her way of letting us know who's boss.

By Joseph01
From: Simi Valley, CA
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great route, a bit easier than 5.6 if your tall and a bit harder if your short.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Sep 11, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Was very much looking forward to this climb, but upon checking out the top section it became very apparent that something was either attracting a lot of bees about 2/3 the way up or they had decided to make their little bee home inside the crack. Thus, with my heart torn in pieces I eventually agreed with my partners that it was probably a bad idea to go creeping up into their home turf.

Soooo be mindful of bees in the crack until it gets colder.

By Ryan Suedkamp
Oct 12, 2010

We did this route on Oct 11th. The bees are still there and still mad. Be careful.

By Wesley Stupar
From: Glendora
Jan 16, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

No bees on 1-15-11. Really fun lead. Didn't use any nuts or tiny cams. Rated G climb - lots of places for solid protection and really good stances to place pro. Brought a full rack of cams up to 2.5. Also brought a few large hexes and loved them.

By szoreilly
Jan 16, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First lead on this today. Beginning few moves are a bit strenuous, but totally mellow stances for placing pro thereafter. Using a crash pad at the bottom will help in the event you slip off the first move or two. Very fun, and a great line.

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 8, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First few feet seemed pretty stiff for a 5.6. I thought a 5.7- might be more accurate. Slipped and landed on my butt starting it. No damage done, except to my ego. Overall a very fun climb. Best at it's grade on Castle Rock, and better than Bonnie Brae, by far.

By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The real trick on this climb is the first 15 feet or so. The good news is it has a flat sandy base, so if you take a couple grounders before getting your first piece in, like I did, the landing is good. After that the route mellows. Bring all you medium to large cams and rack everything on your right side. Down low the crack will eat all you medium sized cams (.75 to 3)and near the top I placed a #5 nearly tipped out. Rack a couple small cams and nuts on your left to build your anchor.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 5, 2011

"The real trick on this climb is the first 15 feet or so. The good news is it has a flat sandy base, so if you take a couple grounders before getting your first piece in, like I did, the landing is good."

+5

By Rodger Raubach
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

After reading some of the other posts here, I conclude that the start must really be the crux for a shorter climber. I'm 5'10" and it was a bit of a stretch for me...my GF had some real problems starting, but she was only 5'0". I took a look at this on the way out, going home a couple weeks ago, and it certainly is an intimidating-looking route for "only" 5.6!

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Mar 28, 2012

Nice start (don't lay back steam it, the friction is all there), before you know it your up the first 15'. No more than a 5.6 for the tree

By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Kinda hard to get 10ft off the ground for a 5.6! Then a cruise.

By Rodger Raubach
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I'll add that a Bouldering Pad is part of the "rack for this climb! I've sure seen a lot of climbers do butt-plants on this one! (Myself included!)