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Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 
DH1? T,S 
Enlightenment, The S 
Long Live Rock T,S 
Mile High Comic Crack T 
Nighthawk  T 
Saturday Treat T 
Schizofrantic T,S 
Ticket, The S 
Young and the Rackless, The S 

DH1? 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 280'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,231
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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At the third and last bolt on the first pitch. The...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thirty feet uphill from The Young and the Rackless, spot a line of three bolts heading up a steep wall. This is the route.

Climb up and left past 3 bolts to lower-angled rock. Ramble up another 40' to the anchor. It's probably better to belayfrom here instead of lowering.

Fun climbing on the steep headwall, but the long easy section to the anchor detracts from the route.

P2-4 

This information was inspired by the comment from Ivan Rezucha. The first pitch of this line carries the name DH1 in the D'Antonio guidebook; however, it appears that the line continues another 3 pitches.

P2. A few feet to the right of the anchor of P1 is a bolt. Traverse to the bolt, then head up. Drift left to an arete of sorts. Continue up past 2 bolts where it steepens at a small, right-facing dihedral. Find good gear placements, continue up to a slab with a 2 bolt anchor & links. 5.9, 70'.

P3. Continue up a short slab to a bulge with a crack protectable with small cams. Clip the bolt. Now, this crux section is tricky and probably 5.11 briefly. Clip a second bolt. Note, a traverse to the right can circumvent this crux at ~5.9. Continue up easier, block ground to a 2 bolt anchor with links. 5.11 or 5.9+, 50'.

P4. Go up a bit of steeper ground angling right past 2 close bolts. There is a long reach out right which may be a crux for the shorter. Then traverse back left with a balancy crux ~5.10-. Continue up on easier ground to an odd, reachy bulge off a ledge protected by a bolt, and find a tiny tree. Angle left on easier terrain to the 2 bolt anchor for P4 of Young and Rackless. 5.10, 100'.

Protection 

Three bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. There is a long runout to the anchor on easy climbing after the third bolt; you might want to bring a few small to medium cams if this is a concern.

Protection for P2-4 

Wires, single set of small cams to a #2 Camalot. With this, the route is at most PG-13.

Note, without #1 & #2 Camalots, P1 will feel distinctly runout.

Descent 

4 x <30m raps down this route or The Young and the Rackless. Both will have some traversing rappels.


Photos of DH1? Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the crux.
Just above the crux.
Contemplating birds and the finish of pitch 2. The P1 anchors can be seen just above the tree branches at the bottom left of the photo. Pitch 2 starts by moving straight right from the P1 anchors, up on trad to 2 bolts (where I am in the photo), and then steps right to a ledge and another set of anchors. Pitches 1 and 2 can be easily combined. <br /> <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
Contemplating birds and the finish of pitch 2. The...
Resting below the crux of P3. <br /> <br />Photo: Dave Rogers.
Resting below the crux of P3.

Photo: Dave Rogers.
Dave on P2.
Dave on P2.
Dave is about to make a long reach right, perhaps the crux of P4.
Dave is about to make a long reach right, perhaps ...

Comments on DH1? Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ron, you stopped too soon. It's not clear whether, after the first 3 bolts, you angled left to the anchor or angled right to a different anchor. If you go right, you can continue to the top past 2 or 3 more intermediate anchors with only slightly more protection bolts than anchor bolts--bring trad gear. This area of the cliff is confusing with anchors everywhere and long, easier trad sections between one or two bolt harder sections. This is how we climbed it:

After the first 3 bolts angle a bit right with occasional trad gear to an anchor. Clip a bolt just right of the anchor, step right, and up on moderate but sparsely protected rock to two bolts. Step right from the second bolt to a ledge and an anchor. Continue up moderate trad to another anchor. Step up then straight right at two closely spaced side by side bolts. Maybe 10a. Angle left a bit and up to a ledge. Make a hard move at another bolt, maybe 10b, then angle a bit right towards some dirty orange rock. Climb the final hard section just left of the orange rock at 2 more bolts and continue to the top and the final set of anchors. With two ropes, rap in one rappel slightly right and down Schizofrantic . With one rope, you can rap to the Schizofrantic anchors, and from there, carefully, to the ground with a 60m rope, or rap the route in 2 or more rappels.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Lenny Miller and I repeated this yesterday and did the route exactly as described by Leo. It's really hard to decide where to go--the route wanders and attempts to force you to climb hard bits here and there. Most cruxes can be easily avoided. My partner Lenny thinks the upper parts of this route are Black Elk, a route described in Bob d'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guide (which I don't have). For me, the move near the top through a short flare to a tiny tree was the crux. The lower crux through an overhang into a short corner and then right was treacherous due to being dirty. I Z-clipped here which led to some excitement. After the tiny tree, there are two more bolts up and right. I started to head that way but decided that was even more contrived than the climbing below and instead finished off left on Young and Rackless.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Loose Rock Warning:
I took a short fall yesterday when I almost pulled off a 18" x 4" x 4" block on P2. I let go of the block (good instinct), fell, and grabbed the rope (bad instinct) and burned my hand a bit. The loose block is on P2 in the left-slanting, right-facing corner/ramp. This is just above the two close-together bolts above some easy trad climbing and just left of a 2-bolt anchor. I held onto the block, which seemed to be an integral part of the rock, as I pulled into the corner from the left, and then pulled straight out on the block as I started up the corner. At that point, the block lifted up several inches, and I took the plunge.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 10, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Ivan, ah...I see what Lenny is saying; however, the description and the photo didn't quite match what we climbed...even with that guidebook at the base of the climb. Gray Elk's Big Rack (63) in D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs doesn't describe the obvious traverse right at the start - which is obvious in our photo & describes P2 having a "loose block" - which we didn't see, P3 as climbing "over a small roof to gain a crack" - rather, we found a crack over a bulge and the crack petered out, and P4 "short, steep face" and "11a" - we found no 11 climbing on our 4th pitch. In addition, the photo for routes 62 (DH1) & 63 have a significant gap at 62's p1 anchor and the strong leftward traverse depicted for 63's p4 didn't seem to match either. Perhaps this requires another wander to clarify this. Still, Lenny is probably right.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Oct 3, 2011

Somebody who KNOWS where Gray Elk's Big Rack goes should post-up so we can see how much of it we climbed, but I think 80%. We traversed over from DH1 to the top of GEBR belay and worked fairly straight up in 2 more pitches. We hit the OH with the 2 bolts, which seemed about 10 b/c, and wandered up to a 2 ring bolt anchor (100 ft?). The last pitch went roughly straight up (seems definitely left of route 63 in Bob's book) but hit the crux flared crack below the tiny tree mentioned above) which may be the crux, but you can move 5 ft right and keep it in the 5.9 range, continuing a bit left then straight up to the anchors of TYATR, (130 ft?). The last bolt on TYATR was maybe only 13 feet left as I cruised to the anchors.
It seemed like a mt route, somewhat reminicent of the ADK's, adventurous, somewhat runout (bolts near each crux) and fun! Our rack consisted of 5 QD, and 4 Camalots, 0.4-1 (never did place the 0.75). A few more pieces for those who don't want to be that runout might be helpful. We then rap'd TYATR with one rope. Fun!!