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DGS
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 55
votes
Routes in (d) Dana's Arch Area
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Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Back Road, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Confused for Daze S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crimson Eye, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3 |
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DGS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Legends Ride Free T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Pencil Thin Mustache T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Psilocybe Cyanescens T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tempitchuous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Gunstone, Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen (var. finish D. Cramer) |
| Page Views: | 5,058 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Oct 2, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
With the possible exception of "The back road", this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall.
P1: ~5.8+. Start with a rightward traverse to a flake and then jam a hand-fist crack to a large ledge with a big fir tree.
(A more challenging first pitch is "The death of Abraham Lincoln by mounties" (5.11c), which goes up the steep face and corner just right of the regular first pitch. )
P2: ~5.9. Start up a pair of thin face cracks, but soon traverse left into the long corner system. The crux is either the thin crack or the traverse into the corner. This pitch is about 150 feet and ends at a bolted belay.
P3 (original): ~5.7. A much shorter pitch that goes up past a bolt to the top of the wall. Some root-grabbing at the end.
P3-P4 (much better variation finish): 5.9. Traverse out right on the exposed ramp about 30' (takes gear). Belay at the bolted anchor. Then do a fantastic, steep 5.9 arete, protected by bolts. Ends at a large platform-overlook spot with a bolted anchor.
For the descent, the easiest is to rap the route. If you do the better variation finish, you can walk over to the other anchor to rap.
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