|Type:||Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'|
|Submitted By:||Charlie Nuttelman on Jan 23, 2002|
|Comments on Dexter Creek Slab||Add Comment|
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 8, 2002
2/5/02 Dexter Creek Slab - decent. 2 minor steps of ice on the approach. 60m gets you to the base of the 2nd pitch. 55m get you to a decent tree to belay at the top. Sun hit about 1p. Brittle ice in spots makes climbing below other parties hazardous!
2nd pitch is steeper than 3rd pitch. 60m ropes very useful. 1st pitch includes 2 20ft bits of WI2 ice (can be bypassed R). Rappel 60m x 2 to right keeps you out of line of fire. Beware of following other parties. It funnels down to a fairly narrow exit. Sun hit about 1p. Don't drive up the last road branching before the private gate, you'll get stuck.
By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Jan 16, 2007
|Despite not having a large bowl above it Dexter can still have unstable snow conditions. On 1/15/07 I watched many small (but large enough) avalanches come loose.|
From: Boise, ID
Mar 11, 2011
Fun climb! We did it in two 60m rope stretchers. I think the initial low angle ice that was mentioned was covered in snow when we did this.
P1: Started at the first WI 3/4 section, and climbed about 90 or 100 feet of fat water ice to a steep snow slog. Belayed at the end of the rope at the base of the next steep ice section.
P2: Climbed 50 feet of lower angle (WI2/3) ice to a 20ft near vertical (WI4) section. After this, the angle relaxed significantly with WI2 and then snow slogging up to trees where I once again belayed at the end of the rope.
With regards to the descent, we started down the walkoff to climber's left, but it quickly put us on a steep exposed slope covered in very sketchy snow, so we ended up doing 2 60m raps off of trees from the top of the scary slope down a loose rock gully to climber's right which put us near the bottom of the climb.
Dec 31, 2012
|Rap the route. The walk off is sketchy. DO NOT USE TREE ANCHORS AT THE TOP! The stances are awful and on loose rocky dirt and you will kick rocks onto parties below you. Thanks!|