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|Submitted By: ||Blitzo on Nov 1, 2006|
This area, not seen from Highway 120, contains some of the best volcanic-rock cragging in the Mammoth area. It offers excellent crack climbing.
I'll get photos to help with the descriptions as soon as I can get up there again.
Take Hwy. 120, east from 395 for 16 miles to Sagehen Summit. Turn right on 1N02 and follow it 8.5 miles to the Dexter Canyon campsite. Walk down into the canyon from here.
For complete information get "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs" by Marty Lewis and John Moynier.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Dexter Canyon
Clark Kent 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Clark Kent Cliff
One of the best at Dexter. Rope drag precludes doing it in one long pitch. P1: Start with the crux off the ground in twin thin cracks. Follow easier crack climbing and belay under a large roof about 100 feet up.P2: Hand traverse to the right edge of the roof, then jam and stem up a very cool overhanging corner....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Dexter Canyon
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Josh Cameron|
May 21, 2012
Dexter Canyon is the epitome of adventure climbing. Its not so much about the climbing but the whole experience.
I'd recommend bringing slightly larger pro than the Mammoth guide suggests. The guide recommends pro up to 4 inches, but in the crux 5.9 offwidth of Forbidden Planet my 4 inch cams were too small so I was faced with a 30 foot runout.
Quite the adventure. A very cool place, but don't expect to get a lot of climbing in unless you have the place wired.
Also, I second the ideas that its difficult to identify the climbs.
Edit: Be careful going down the approach trail; its loose! I was chased by a boulder about the size of a legless and armless man. Luckily, I didn't get squashed.
|By trying hard|
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 6, 2014
This area is unique. It features great crack climbing for those who have the adventurous spirit. You have a hike a lot through deep pumice to get here. It is a full on mission. There a few that are top notch and a lot of marginal climbs.