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Dexter Canyon

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Bowling for Keeps Cliff 
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Dexter Canyon 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 1, 2006
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Description 

This area, not seen from Highway 120, contains some of the best volcanic-rock cragging in the Mammoth area. It offers excellent crack climbing.

I'll get photos to help with the descriptions as soon as I can get up there again.


Getting There 

Take Hwy. 120, east from 395 for 16 miles to Sagehen Summit. Turn right on 1N02 and follow it 8.5 miles to the Dexter Canyon campsite. Walk down into the canyon from here.

For complete information get "Mammoth Area Rock Climbs" by Marty Lewis and John Moynier.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dexter Canyon
Vapor Lock on the left. Great Crack climb.

Vapor Lock 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Vapor Lock Cliff
Great Route. Classic Eastside volcanic crack climb. Fingers/ off hands. You can sling a interesting chock stone 70' up to rap off or continue climbing upward to guidebook suggested belay....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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By Josh Cameron
May 21, 2012

Dexter Canyon is the epitome of adventure climbing. Its not so much about the climbing but the whole experience.

I'd recommend bringing slightly larger pro than the Mammoth guide suggests. The guide recommends pro up to 4 inches, but in the crux 5.9 offwidth of Forbidden Planet my 4 inch cams were too small so I was faced with a 30 foot runout.

Quite the adventure. A very cool place, but don't expect to get a lot of climbing in unless you have the place wired.

Also, I second the ideas that its difficult to identify the climbs.

Edit: Be careful going down the approach trail; its loose! I was chased by a boulder about the size of a legless and armless man. Luckily, I didn't get squashed.

By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 6, 2014

This area is unique. It features great crack climbing for those who have the adventurous spirit. You have a hike a lot through deep pumice to get here. It is a full on mission. There a few that are top notch and a lot of marginal climbs.