2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Climb the black-washed, right-leaning corner right of Au Natural. Very sketchy small pro going up the corner. Near the top of the corner, clip a bolt on the left wall. Continue straight up, or step right and climb a slab to the anchor.
Fun stemming and laybacking up the corner, and thin slab climbing at the top. A good route. Can toprope this route after leading Au Natural.
1 bolt (retrobolted with permission?) plus some small-to-medium gear should get you to the anchor.
I agree with the comment above. Though short, the balancy crux was fun and exciting. I was able to place a #1 and #2 Camalot on long slings before the lone bolt, then ran it out to the anchors on fairly easy rock. Rossiter rates it a 9+.
I have to agree with Matt. I really enjoyed this route, having done many of the routes at the Riviera. It also offers the best placement for the yellow/red offset Alien Ive gotten yet! Remember, you're not in Eldo here, the climbs are short, but this was classic Canyon stemming and slab moves in my opinion.
I thought this was a quite fun route....5.6 climbing with very thoughtful pro (use slings) to a steep and slick dihedral with a seam (no pro) and a perfect bolt on the left wall to protect this balancy crux. Above the bolt is sustained 5.8 climbing for ~15 feet until a perfect Alien placement...eases off to 2 bolt belay. This exciting and fun pitch.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 22, 2002 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a PG13
Deserves a star. It is oddly reminscent of the 2nd pitch of Where Eagles Dare. Offset cams are not required. It is not R rated with the bolt.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 1, 2002 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
It's short, but somewhat fun. I'd tell people it was fun and if they got somehow stranded at this bolt-infested crag that it is worth the bother. 1-star, and a lot better than many of the other routes there. Too bad it was retro-bolted.
This is a great climb on great rock. It's too short, but it's far from being a one-move wonder. The moves, like the gear placements, require some thought. Also, both the moves and the gear can feel a little insecure. However the stances are good enough that you have plenty of time to think through your gear placements and moves, so it feels pretty safe.
I used only small stoppers through the crux, as I didn't see anywhere to get in a cam. Maybe a micro cam in the dihedral - but I don't have any.
History: I was pointed to this by Richard Rossiter a good while back. I did the first lead sans bolt with Steve Ilg as my second. Try it sometime without the bolt, which was added with my permission by Jon Grayson, it is even more thoughtful. The route was originally named Devin's Dihedral. I have no idea why it was renamed.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Nov 4, 2003 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I did it without the bolt and you are right, it is more interesting. I carried a handful of RPs and offsets and still didn't get a good piece in until after the crux. It's more or less a S/VS 5.9 climb. My previous comment was made without the knowledge that the retrobolting was by permission fo the FA party (whomever you are), although I don't necessarily endorse it. The info that the FA party was in consent came from an anonymous source here...So who did the FA?
There's a microcam in a tiny horizontal around to the right of the rounded arete before you get to the bolt. I remember being gripped just getting to the bolt.
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Nov 23, 2003 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Personally I thought it was a fun route and one of the better routes at the crag. Thoughtful moves required and extra spicy for the leader. Even more fun in 40 degree weather with numb fingers. Not to be missed if at the crag. Rossiter gives this route a star and a 5.9+ rating.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Fun and safe with the bolt, but I wouldn't recommend it to a budding 5.9 trad leader.
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Aug 8, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
I found this climb to be varied and thought provoking, bolt or not. Definitely bring some small cams along, maybe a couple of green c3s (save one for after the bolt). I decided from the ground to decide whether to clip the bolt when I got there. Due to the flaring nature of the crack, protection was somewhat dubious and quite a bit down from the bolt, which meant I thought better to clip the bolt and wuss out than break my legs in a nasty fall (or worse!). I encourage you to make the same evaluation and climb it in whatever manner makes you happiest. I will say that every person that seconded this route after me raved about it, and that the bolt did make for a good directional to keep them safe. IMO, best route at the crag.
More gear beta: there is a small horizontal nut placement around the rounded (right) corner just before the last committing moves out of the dihedral.
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO May 19, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
To easily top rope this without doing the sketchy lead and if you can't climb 5.10 (the climb to the right that shares the same anchor) is to do Bosch Blanket trailing a second rope, clip into the anchors of Bosch and continue leading a few more feet over to the next anchor to your left (easy traverse, but don't fall because of course potential for a little swing). Clip in again of course to that anchor as you set up the top rope and then go back to the first anchors and lower.
Maybe this is obvious but just for your info.
Eeks, it was ten years ago when I first commented on this route.
By Evan Riley From: San Francisco, CA Jul 7, 2013 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
This route can be zipped up with a blue/purple MC, a #0.75 C4 out left and the bolt. Best route at the crag.