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Devils Tower Durrance Route Rack
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By Tyler Gagne
Jun 14, 2010
I am curious if my rack will be fine for Devils Tower and the Durrance or Wiessner Route?

4-13 BD Stoppers
1-6 Wallnuts
#4-#7 Metolius Powercams
#2 BD Camalot
.5 and .75 WiredBliss TCU
2 Cordalettes
various lockers
8 Trad draws
6 QD's
3 double length slings
60M Rope
Gri Gri
ATC
2 HMS Biners

Also curious are there any routes that can be rappelled with one rope?

Thank you.

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By W.S.
From Montana
Jun 15, 2010
mountainproject.com/v/wyoming/...

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By csproul
From Davis, CA
Jun 15, 2010
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
I seem to remember that it would have been real nice to have a large piece or two...i.e. a #4 or #5 Camalot (not sure how that compares with the #7 Metolius, but I bet it is larger). That said, if you are solid on wide stuff for the grade, it can be done without. My partner and I did it without anything large, but there were some good runouts, and I remember wishing that I had some bigger gear. I have only been there once and done the rap once, but the way I remember it you need two ropes to rap.

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By cdurf
From Mpls, MN & Sao Paulo, Brazil
Jun 15, 2010
Climb alone. Except with Wilson on my helmet!
I also recall using camalots 2, 3 and 4.

Many Belay stations have a pair of bolts. Use them and a couple of quickdraws for you anchors so you can travel faster. Otherwise there may be a traffic jam.

I used two rope repells.

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By EB
From Winona
Jun 15, 2010
First off, really consider if the durrance route is the route you want to do. I don't understand why so many people climb this route. I understand that its in the fifty classics book, but I feel that its more of a classic due to the history of the route and not the climbing which I felt was the worst of all the tower routes I've done. What I suggest is give yourself some credit and step up to the cleaner and more difficult routes. There is nowhere else in the US that has better and more mindless gear than the tower. Rooutes such as soler, walt bailey memorial, el cracko diablo on the east face are much cleaner and more direct routes to the summit. However if youre looking for a bunch of 40ft pitches to the top of the tower and crowds of people than the durrance is your best bet!

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By Kalil Oldham
From Brooklyn, NY
Jun 15, 2010
At the Harry Daley Base, Yosemite Valley.
EB wrote:
First off, really consider if the durrance route is the route you want to do. I don't understand why so many people climb this route. I understand that its in the fifty classics book, but I feel that its more of a classic due to the history of the route and not the climbing which I felt was the worst of all the tower routes I've done. What I suggest is give yourself some credit and step up to the cleaner and more difficult routes. There is nowhere else in the US that has better and more mindless gear than the tower. Rooutes such as soler, walt bailey memorial, el cracko diablo on the east face are much cleaner and more direct routes to the summit. However if youre looking for a bunch of 40ft pitches to the top of the tower and crowds of people than the durrance is your best bet!


+1 for Walt Bailey, Soler, Cracko. Or head over to the north side and take the Assembly Line to the top. It's awesome!

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