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Devil's Tongue

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Devil's Tongue S 

Devil's Tongue Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 10,000'
Page Views: 2,243
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Aug 21, 2007
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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation


There is a massive amount of rock to the East or left of Devils Castle's Apron. Most of it is quite low angle or broken up. This Buttress is an exception. It is a prominent pillar approx. 200m (maybe a bit more!?) to the left of the Devils Castle routes. It gets quite a bit of afternoon sun, but plan on having weather gear with you as you would for Devil's Castle. The rock is the same limestone found on DC.

Getting There 

As for DC, shorter approach time as it is pretty much directly above the Albion Basin campground. See photo.

Climbing Season

For the Albion Basin area.

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Devil's Tongue
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in profile about 15 minutes from the Alb...

Devil's Tongue 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Tongue
This fun climb has 2 x 25m pitches and has a very alpine feel. Not too serious, however! It ascends the prominent pillar of the North West Face. Some afternoon sun, but not as high as DC. Most loose rock has been cleaned, but approach as you would any climb up at Devil's Castle and wear helmets and climb cautiously.Pitch #1: Starts just to the right (west) of a large low angle gully. Some dirty or broken up sections down low lead to a cruxy edgy section with very good rock. Climb past abou...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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