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Devil's Tongue Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Devil's Tongue

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Devil's Tongue S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	10,000 ft
GPS:	40.57792, -111.6194 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,711 total · 18/month
Shared By:	James Garrett on Aug 21, 2007
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

There is a massive amount of rock to the East or left of Devils Castle's Apron. Most of it is quite low angle or broken up. This Buttress is an exception. It is a prominent pillar approx. 200m (maybe a bit more!?) to the left of the Devils Castle routes. It gets quite a bit of afternoon sun, but plan on having weather gear with you as you would for Devil's Castle. The rock is the same limestone found on DC.