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Devil's Thumb
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Direct East Ridge 
East Ridge (via Southeast face) 
Plumb-Stuzman (Northeast Rib of the North Face) T 

Devil's Thumb  


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Elevation: 9,077'
Location: 57.091, -132.37399 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,664
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 24, 2009
Forecast:
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Snow Showers
31° | 27°
Overcast
36° | 34°
Rain
35° | 31°
Ice Pellets
35° | 30°
Chance of Rain
38° | 32°
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Devil's Thumb from the West. The Witch's Tits and...

Description 

Few peaks in North America inspire as much reverance as the Devil's Thumb. As the uncanny name suggests this a place of turmoil, frustration, and tragedy. Despite boasting only a miserly 9,000 feet of altitude, the relatively low 3000-foot base elevation provides sweeping walls of ice and granite diorite.

The Thumb's dramatic appearance has lured climbers for more than six decades. First climbed by the prolific Fred Becky in 1946, the Thumb saw only four ascents during the ensuing three decades. As alpine standards have improved over the last 20 years, the peak has experienced a relative renaissance, though sadly this trend has resulted in a number of tragic deaths on this seemingly inoccuous peak.

Truly, this is not a peak to be taken lightly. A detailed analysis of fatalities per summit attempt would undoubtedly reveal this peak to be the deadlieast on the continent.

However, the multi-faceted monolith has a little something for everyone, and perhaps this is part of the attraction. Rock masters will be drawn to the clean white granite of the southwest buttress. Bold alpinists will be lured to the peak's wicked 6,000-foot ice-plastered northwest face, considered by many to be a 'Last Great Problem' of North American mountaineering. Old-school mountaineers can still slog most of the way up the southern slope, and those in search of a bit of everything will be enamored by the classic Direct East Ridge.

Weather on this peak is a serious problem, and trips can be ruined by pervasive storms. The dioritic granite found here is also less than ideal, with at least one fatality attributed to rock fall.


Getting There 

The Thumb can be approached via helicopter as described under the Stikine Ice Cap section, or via boat & foot. For routes on the North & Southwest sides, approach via the Baird Glacier and Witch's Cauldron. For the Southeast side of the peak, approach from the Ice Cap.

The original ascents of the peak were made with an approach from British Columbia, with boat passage from Petersburg, up the Stikine river to Telegraph Creek, and a long hump west over the Stikine Ice Cap, passing Kate's Needle along the way.

Climbing Season



Weather station 72.9 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Devil's Thumb
Plumb-Stutzman Route <br />Northeast Buttress, Devils Thumb  <br /> <br />99% sure this is a USGS photo <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />

Plumb-Stuzman (Northeast Rib of the North Face) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Steep Snow  AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Devil's Thumb
INTRODUCTIONThis route was begun as a direct up the North Face. After about ten pitches of climbing, the melting central face caused a change of plan. A traverse was made over to the safer northeast rib and that was followed to the top. This grade VI, 5.10, has probably not had a second ascent. The Northeast Rib might be a lot better than some past AAJ and magazine articles have suggested. Stories about loose rock and rotten rock may have come from the first climber to talk to Bob an...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Devil's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
Fred Beckey's original summit register from 1946.  Still looking pretty good despite the weather!
Fred Beckey's original summit register from 1946. ...
A view down the North Face into the Witch's Cauldron from the summit of Devil's Thumb.
A view down the North Face into the Witch's Cauldr...
Devil's Thumb from the Southeast.
Devil's Thumb from the Southeast.

Comments on Devil's Thumb Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 26, 2009
My Devil's Thumb trip report can be found on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 6, 2011
Some recent news from Climbing Magazine about great rock on the Diablo Traverse.

Dougald MacDonald's article in climbing.com about a winter solo ascent by Zack Hoyt.

photo of Thumb