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Devil's Thumb
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Avenging Angel (of choss) T 
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Devil's Spiral Variation 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: kevinnlong on Jun 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: This was our "second" pitch traversing to the notc...

Description 

This climb is a variation to the traditional Devil's Thumb Spiral Route, and because the climbing is so nice through the final moves, it deserves its own description.

From the notch north of the Devil's Thumb, begin climbing north, north-east from the notch as per the Devil's Spiral Route. After 40 feet, when you effectively reach a ramp band that spirals along the east face of the thumb (the Spiral Route continues this way), head straight up to the summit for approximately 60-70 feet following crack systems the whole way.

20 feet from the summit block proper, you will encounter three choices to the summit. We took what I wagered as technically the easiest line, straight up a 5.5-5.6 hand crack which diagonals up and left. The foot work is great, and the crux protects with pieces ranging from 0.75--1.5 inches (I used a hex here).

Although the crux is relatively short, the line is direct, aesthetic, and generates very little rope drag. It should be done in 1 pitch from the notch. Moreover, it allows the leader to watch the second all the way to the summit block.

DESCENT: Rappel from slings around the summit block. One 60 meter rope is required here. Bring a 4-6 foot sling to back the old ones up.


Location 

Arrive at the notch north of the Devil's Thumb as described in the Spiral Route. We climbed the class 4 gully to the north of the Thumb in 1 pitch; then we down climbed class 3/4 to the notch for the second pitch.


Protection 

Small rack required. I used mainly small to mid sized nuts. Through the crux, I placed a BD #8 hex and 1.5 inch (approximately) Metolius Cam.



Photos of Devil's Spiral Variation Slideshow Add Photo
MaryKay following the direct line to the summit block. Note, the traditional spiral route departs from to the climber's left of MaryKay.
BETA PHOTO: MaryKay following the direct line to the summit bl...
The route sans the first 20 feet from the notch (below the bottom of the picture). The crux is the final crack system just before the summit. As can be seen/imagined, this route produces little rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: The route sans the first 20 feet from the notch (b...
Our victory shot. The notch is visible in the background. The route ascends parallel to the northern skyline aspect of the thumb in the shot displaced to the east.
Our victory shot. The notch is visible in the back...
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