Owen and Savage, and the levitating nut - Punchbow...
The Devilís Punchbowl is the hidden gem of Los Angeles County. Nestled into the northern foothills of the San Gabriel mountain range, this county park is blessed with white sandstone strata, pushed skyward by the geologic activity of the San Andreas Fault and other nearby fault lines. These soft slabs are beautiful to see and great to climb. While many do not care for slab climbing, or feel uncomfortable on sandstone, the climbing here presents a variety of style in a beautiful setting where the high desert meets the mountains. Although not a replacement for the sport climbing of the now closed Williamson area, anyone looking for a change from the routine, or needing to work on their slab technique, should give DPB a try. And soft sandstone is very easy on the fingertips! Just remember to always pull down on flakes, never outward. ;-)
The park is open from sunrise to sunset and there are no fees associated. This is a very popular spot for day hikers and nature classes. The County of Los Angeles Parks and Recreation department offers many guided hikes and other activities for visitors. Please go to www.devils-punchbowl.com for more information. Be sure also to check out the live snake collection in the welcome center and say hello to Ruth
Some years ago there was a move to ban climbing in the Punch Bowl. Luckily, cooler heads prevailed. But for the purpose of keeping this wonderful area open to climbing, please be very respectful of the area, obey park rules, use only proper trails, pack out everything that you bring in, and note that no new route development is allowed, and no bolting. If you find bolts in need of replacement, please contact the ASCA, and they can work with the Parks and Rec department of Los Angeles County on our behalf.
Amenities: There are several small markets in Pearblossom for basic supplies, near and on the corner of CA-138 and Longview. There are a couple restaurants nearby these markets, as well as a wider selection in the towns of Little Rock and Palmdale, not far to the west, along the CA-138.
Camping: There are two campgrounds nearby with sites for tents as well as RVís. Both have toilets and fire pits, one has running water. Both require an Adventure Pass and according to the first link (scroll down to find the campgrounds, listed in alphabetical order), both are free. But according to the second link, South Fork charges $8/night.
From the I-15: take the Palmdale/Silverwood Lake exit and drive west on CA-138, (or west on CA-18 if coming from the north Ė the CA-18 will eventually merge with the CA-138), 30.1 miles to the town of Pearblossom.
From the I-5: take the Palmdale/Lancaster exit and drive north on the CA-14 for 29.7 miles. Take exit #30 (Angeles Forest Hwy/Pearblossom Hwy) and drive 0.3 miles to Sierra Hwy. Turn left on Sierra Hwy and drive 1.2 miles to Pearblossom Hwy. Turn right and continue east for 13.2 miles to the town of Pearblossom.
From Pearblossom: turn south on Longview Rd. At the T intersection (2.2 mi) turn left onto Ft. Tejon Rd. After 0.3 miles, turn right onto Longview Rd. Continue 2.3 miles and turn left onto Tumbleweed Rd. (which turns into Devilís Punchbowl Rd.) Drive 2.9 miles to the end of the road/parking lot. 28000 Devil's Punchbowl Rd., Pearblossom Ca. 93553
Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the arÍte past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from arÍte to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Rou...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Who ever replaced the second bolt on Followers Folly 5.9, why did you just leave the old bolt? WHY DID YOU TRY, and smash it into the rock with the nut still on it.. Looks like total Noob work. Bad paint job to, it all flaked off. If you don't know how to pull the old bolts W/out damaging the rock. You have no business Bolting at the punchbowl Period!!!! Stop scaring the rock.. The Ranger is going to get upset..
Jeff C, it seems (not seams) this is a case of the kettle calling the pot black. It is often said that it is better to be thought of as ignorant than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. You have removed all doubt about your ignorance. Time to call the ASCA.