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Devil's Lake

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Devil's Lake Bouldering 
East Bluff - East of the Quarry 
East Bluff - East Rampart 
East Bluff - Far West End 
East Bluff - North End 
East Bluff - Potholes Area 
East Bluff - Railroad Tracks 
East Bluff - Sandstone Area 
East Bluff - West of the Quarry 
Ice Age Wall 
Linkups, Contrivances, Oddities and Triflings 
South Bluff 
West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater 
West Bluff - Great Tower (Mid-bluff) 
West Bluff - Lincoln's Chair 
West Bluff - Misery/Cottage Rocks 
West Bluff - North Woods 
West Bluff - Stettner Rocks 
West Bluff - West Rampart 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Holy Schist
The name speaks for itself. A long section of difficult trail with little respite until the end. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Barneveld, WI
Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Blue Mounds village, WI
Quarry Ridge - Cross Country Loop
Figure 8 loop for 2.6 miles of cross country riding. Near Fitchburg, WI
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Devil's Lake  


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Location: 43.4135, -89.7164 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
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Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...

Description 

Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.

Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Lynn Hill, John Sherman, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.

Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.

The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.

There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.


Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked":


Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...
Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1985. Photo: Dave Langhoff.



Andy Hanson on Lost Face Overhangs:


Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.
Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.

Bouldering 

Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.

Organization 

There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.

The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.

Location/Directions 

Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.

Guidebooks 

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Accomodations 

There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

1,646 Total Routes

['4 Stars',98],['3 Stars',646],['2 Stars',663],['1 Star',201],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',275],['5.7',161],['5.8',138],['5.9',83],['5.10',109],['5.11',73],['5.12',63],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',102],['V2-3',300],['V4-5',139],['V6-7',79],['V8-9',86],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',36],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Lake:
Slope of Dadaism   V3 6A     Boulder   Monolith Area : East of Trail Boulders
Purple Gold   V9- 7C     Boulder   Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering
East Comfort Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle
Queen's Throne   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 80'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress
Coatimundi Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress
Roger's Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart
Birch Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Upper Diagonal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone
Cheatah   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress
Flake Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 29 pitches, 290'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Son Of Great Chimney   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Browse More Classics in Devil's Lake

Featured Route For Devil's Lake
Ryan on brintons. Probably the best climb at the l...

Brinton's Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Brinton's Buttress
Brinton's is perhaps the most classic among the many classic moderates at Devil's Lake. The elegance of the line, the interesting moves, and the exposure are unmatched. Follow the main weakness on the left edge of the buttress. This will take you to a cramped alcove. From here, traverse to the right across good footholds, but miserable hand holds. Many consider this the crux. Protection for the traverse is "adequate." After the traverse, climb straight up a short jam crack (crux #2) to a b...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Devil's Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Great day , perfect belay. Devil's Lake 7/28/12
Great day , perfect belay. Devil's Lake 7/28/12
Sunrise over the East Bluff.  September 2010.
Sunrise over the East Bluff. September 2010.
Morning fog.
Morning fog.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Cranes crossing the road.
Cranes crossing the road.
Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Moonrise in the east.  From the boat landing.  Apr...
Moonrise in the east. From the boat landing. Apr...
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Someone should write that one day.
Someone should write that one day.
Looking east from the south shore, October 2007.
Looking east from the south shore, October 2007.
The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
Moonrise.
Moonrise.
Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
DEVIL's DOORWAY
DEVIL's DOORWAY
Photo by Andrew Burr.
Photo by Andrew Burr.
Enjoying beer atop the East Bluff at sunset.
Enjoying beer atop the East Bluff at sunset.
Amazing sunset, hanging out by the lake,
Amazing sunset, hanging out by the lake,
Devils Lake, July 2011.
Devils Lake, July 2011.

Show All 244 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Devil's Lake Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2013
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 14, 2006
Found Forgotten Gear at Devil's Lake East Bluff
If you describe in detail what and where (there are distinct markings, gear types, and brands) then you have your gear back.

burtacus@sbcglobal.net

By JK1
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 4, 2006
I am visiting from Colorado in June and was wondering where to get a guidebook for Devil's Lake area. Thanks
By Rich T
Apr 5, 2006
Jeff,

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. It can also be found at amazon.com. Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Happy Climbing!
By Robert Keller
Aug 26, 2006
Any climbing in Adam's County? Any info on Ship Rock? Bolts on top? Large worthless dogs like my girlfriend's Newf allowed?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 28, 2006
To Robert:

Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.

There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).

There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.

Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area.....
By azraek opinka
Sep 25, 2006
Does anyone know about the history of route-naming at Devil's Lake? I heard a rumor about conflict over route names between groups of male and female climbers in the 1950s and wanted to confirm the story and get more info.

Thanks,

Adam
By mcarizona
From: Flag
Jun 1, 2007
Hi all, I'll be visiting "in-laws' in july, flying with a 2 year old and all that goes with that scene. Can I take just shoes and get on some boulders at Devils lake? How about a suggestion of "minimal' gear that can keep me moving up on some moderates on my vacation. Thanks.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 30, 2007
I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 16, 2008
Whooo!

Black Flies is nasty! Slightly tainting an otherwise nice May day at East Bluff.
By Thomas Ferguson
Aug 19, 2008
This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.

(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!)
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2008
I would say there are plenty of tucked away places to get away from the crowds at DL. I was out last Saturday and Sunday, and probably only saw a half dozen other climbers.

That said a sunny summer weekend at the East Rampart is a veritable zoo.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 21, 2008
LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2008
This is kind of a cool reference about the geology of Devil's Lake

Also some cool aerial pics of the geology towards the bottom of this page.
By al grahn
Oct 6, 2008
Lost/left a pair of five ten Newton climbing shoes near the Flatus Wall on the East Bluffs on Sunday Sept.21. If anyone has them or knows who may have picked them up, I'd love to have them back.
By Eric Porter
From: Keiler Wi.
Oct 10, 2008
I am a new climber and would like to know who to get started with and where. I would not like to test gravity affect on the body without some training. Does anyone know off climbing clubs, guides, teachers that would be willing to help.

Eric
By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 20, 2008
Hey Eric, Your best bet is to check out the nearest gym. They should have some classes to get you on the right track.


----------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyways:




Next summer '09, I have a trip planned to go to devils lake. I was thinking about staying how ever long I wanted, no more than a week. I want to just chill and have a good time.

This is my question:

Where is the cheapest camping?? (if I spent a week i don't want to spend $20 a night, thats a bit much.) So if you could just point me in the right direction of cheap/free camping that would be great.


P.S. If need be, I can sleep in my car to save some money, but would like a place to put up a tent.


Thanks
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 21, 2009
An interesting quote regarding climbing ethics at Devils Lake. Here's the exact paragraph (emphases by the authors):

"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"

"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 21, 2009
I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."

I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 21, 2009
Doug, I stand corrected :) Thanks for the last remark although we were inspired by conversations with Dave Groth, ascents of Jason Huston, and videos of Dave Macleod. So the credit goes to these guys.
By Tradoholic
May 22, 2009
Huston is my hero! Too bad he's become a sport climber...(sigh).

There are still leads to be done at DL but I think "Ground Up" ascents of the 5.12's and up are the next level (Some have been done obviously). The placement of gear and tricky sequences would make these totally ground-breaking (pun not intended).
Ground up ascents of the totally un-led projects would be A. the most dangerous thing I could think of and B. Mind blowing.
Someone get Macleod on the phone!

I am also psyched to see these things going down! Friction season is just a few months away. Start making your list and checking it twice to see if the rock will be naughty or nice.
By Teddy
From: MN
May 27, 2009
What area is the most fun place to climb here??
By Tradoholic
Jun 2, 2009
Watch out, the "no-see'ums" are brutal right now. Drew blood every time. I hate those things!
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2009
A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :(
Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff?
By Peter Arndt
Jun 15, 2009
Accident/Fall as reported by "Baraboo News Republic":

wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
Really hope they are alright. There is an emergency phone over above Balanced Rock, for reference.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2009
Check this out for a little more info on the accident.
wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871
By Tradoholic
Jun 15, 2009
Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity."
That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
The reason they said that is because no part of devils lake is "designated" for climbing. The park doesn't actively recognize it as an activity.

I was a little caught off guard at first by the comment but then I remembered having a conversation with a ranger about it. Funny.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 15, 2009
Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....

The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 16, 2009
So what does that last line in the report mean? "The man, whose name was not released, was climbing in an area not designated for that activity." ????

Any ideas where he was climbing? The quarry perhaps?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 12, 2009
Public shout out to Remo, Rhoads, and Steve (on his blogs) for all the recent posting and route updating on DL bouldering.

Defintely appreciated.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 5, 2009
And Rhoads appears to be on a mission to MP up every piece of decent climbable rock within the State Park. It's great! Thanks Nick. Eventually you will run out but it's still along way off.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 17, 2009
I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it?
By Peter Arndt
Aug 17, 2009
John:
Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake.
He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are.
So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 17, 2009
Yeah, I too heard that rockfall. We weren't even sure what it was, but it was a pretty terrifying noise.
By SteveSchultz
Aug 18, 2009
We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 18, 2009
Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 18, 2009
I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before.
By Tradoholic
Aug 18, 2009
HAHA! Super funny guys! I know what you're talking about now. I encourage you to Google "Badger Ammunition Plant" for beta on those bomb sounds.
Classic!
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 20, 2009
Ha, oh thats hilarious. That makes sense.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 25, 2009
I think that the Badger Ammunition Plant has been out of commission since the Cold War.
By Tradoholic
Aug 25, 2009
This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall".
Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2009
We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there.
By Matt Satermo
From: jefferson, wi
Oct 11, 2009
I lost my wedding ring somewhere between the CCC lot and Brinton's Butress on 10/10. It's a beat up gold band. I looked for it for 3 hours this morning to no avail. In the event that anyone finds it please! contact me. As you can imagine I'm in hot water.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010
wiscnews.com/baraboonewsrepubl...

A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields....
By tupelo
Jul 25, 2010
I found a harness at the base of Brinton's crack sat. night, 7-24-10. you can reach me at phreed333@hotmail.com of this is yours.
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
If you can do all of the following routes (Just on TR) you can then claim Alex A is your bitch. Start your engines!

Lead them and I will be your bitch, sponge-bath included ;)

"Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"
By Alex A
Dec 29, 2010
What Nick is eluding too, these are the 16 routes that have I have not climbed of the 1600 routes, my to do list, not going to Happen,
I think I'm safe from bitch duty, for awhile, a few of the routes have only 1 ascent, plus need to come to Colorado, to Collect,
good luck on doing them all, you need it,
By Tradoholic
Jan 1, 2011
Just doing the ones Alex hasn't done would be quite the accomplishment, never mind the other 1584 routes! I might be able to close in if I stay in WI ;)
By Tradoholic
Feb 13, 2011
Check out the March 2011 issue of Climbing Magazine for "Lake Effect" by local Jay Knower!
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Apr 23, 2011
Partner Search - I may be passing through Devil's Lake on my way west from Michigan around May 5th - 8th. Is this a place that is easy to just meet up and join up when solo? Would love to hook up with some locals (I'll lead up to 5.8/9, TR up to 5.10/11) - let me know best way to reach out or contact once I am closer to knowing when I'll be there. Thanks.
By Tradoholic
Apr 24, 2011
Yep, to jump of some TR's would be easy but I recommend checking people's set up before climbing ;)

Stop by Boulders in Madison on the way, we can hook you up with someone. bouldersgym.com
By Tradoholic
May 13, 2011
Another epic journey took me by those bluffs we all see from 113 near Merry Mac's (choss), around the south side of the bluff (choked by thorn bushes), past the end of Halweg Rd (hidden talus field with no big enough boulders), past Burma Rd and through the gorge there, then north through the woods (nuthin'), back to Ski Hi Rd, and straight through the woods to the Fire Road Boulder (some un-done or forgotten lines), up the east bluff (boulders straight back from Chicago about 100 yards), down the Ice Age Trail, though the woods across the sandstone areas (nothing up top, some stuff around New Standstone), and back to the Jeep at the trail head. This means I'm 99% sure there is no climbable rock not posted currently on MP.

But who knows, I didn't see it all...Happy Hunting!
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)
By GreatLakes
Jul 6, 2011
Anybody ever traverse at DL? Seems like it might be fun to aid climb/traverse the east rampart.
By Tvictor
Jul 20, 2011
Looking for a climbing partner at the lake if anyones interested let me know I can get there any day of the week
By Troyd
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 21, 2011
Found a pair of shoes at the lake this weekend... Send an email to gmurg@yahoo.com to claim. Not worried about the area so much but please tell me the maker and the shoes name. Color would be nice too, area would help, just sayin, I dont want to give a greedy person some nice shoes!
By Roberto de la Riva
Aug 23, 2011
Found some gear at the lake over on East Ramp... I was climbing on August, 22, 2011.

Let me know if you lost something climbing that day.

Roberto
By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Dec 14, 2011
I'm going to be in Wisconsin for a few weeks over the holidays. From what I've heard, there's been a limited amount of snow recently. Any chance the rock will be climbable around the new year?
By Tradoholic
Dec 15, 2011
Possible to climb a select amount of things that time of year. Depends on how much snow we get. So far things are still very climbable. Let me know if you want to give it a go, I'm always up for climbing. Might want to think ice climbing if you have the gear. If you have some stiff boots I could borrow you the rest.
By Eero46
Feb 4, 2012
IS there a bouldering guide for Devil's Lake?
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 4, 2012
Eoro46, not really. This is the closest thing i've seen. climbingtopos.tripod.com/devil...
I also heard rumors of a guide becoming available, but its not done yet.
By Tradoholic
Feb 5, 2012
Bouldering guide, good question. Pondering a route guide myself it was suggested by publishers that I add in bouldering, which I think is what any new guide should contain to have mass appeal. However, routes are going up pretty fast and I think it be wise to wait for that to slow down. However again, the market for any new guide at the lake isn't quite big enough to justify the time effort and $ of making one (based on my current research). However again and again, DL is such a complicated area making the guide in the first place would be seriously involved.
In sum, I'm not sure if a guide will ever be written for reasons stated above plus the fact that MP has become such a complete resource. Internet killed the book star?!?!?
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 5, 2012
Rhoads. Put together a guide. You could ruin EVERYBODYS flash with your beta. You even have a pen name picked out, Trad Nanny.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 8, 2012
I agree. Rhoads you NEED to make a guide. Here's some suggestions:

-Color pics and topos. Aside from climbing pictures, be sure to include topos/pics of approaches for less-traveled areas and shots of TR set-up locations.

-Ticklists. I.E. Best 5.10 trad leads, Best Slab Climbs, Best OW, Best Finger Cracks, etc. You'd definitely need to make a Best Horror Shows. I'm sure you could write 10 versions of the latter.

-Essays from DFLA and other persons who have had impact on route development, access, and community building through Birthday Challenges, the Centennial Challenge, and the like.

All that's left to do is write and edit the damn thing. This should only take a few hours, no? :)
By Tradoholic
Feb 8, 2012
Damn it Baum, you're inspiring me. Maybe we could get some sort of group project going where any interested could contribute to the proj ala Google Docs. We choose a format, get in the info in the blanks and I will do a final edit. Give profits is the Access Fund or something. Wheels are turning!
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 8, 2012
Rhoads, start a forum post. I'm down to help as much as I can being here in Mpls.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 8, 2012
Well I for one would love to see a well done guide for the area. Especially one with a good history section. The older I get, the more I wish I had time to collect all the old stories I heard at the crags and campfires in my formative years in Wisconsin. Before the fuckness. Hell, I've already forgotton most them, and Groth's are some of the best I have ever heard. Anyway, kudos for even thinking about taking on such a challenge, but it seems like you guys have quite a pool of talent to pull from. I'm sure it would be a labor of love, but that's one the best kinds. Would be psyched to help in anyway.
By Eero46
Feb 22, 2012
Alright guys thanks for the help.

What is a good guide book that covers top roping, but more importantly bouldering throughout the whole state of Wisconsin?

I am really interested in the areas Devil's Lake, Governors State Park, Westby, and the central sandstone boulders.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Feb 22, 2012
Eoro46, there isn't really a guide for bouldering, the best guidebook for Devil's Lake is Swartling's Guide to Devil's Lake. It is in its third printing now, I personally like the second edition better if you can find it.

Eric Z. did a bouldering guide to Devil's Lake that is alright, there is a link to some copiedish topos on the Devil's Lake bouldering page.
There is no guidebook for the rest of Wisconsin, unless you count the Falcon guide Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin, but that book is pretty brief for my tastes.

I've never heard of a GDSP guidebook, been there a couple times and haven't really felt a need for anything more than the topos in the areas uploaded by Chris treggE. It would be nice to have one, but I haven't heard of one.

Westby and Central Sandstone are pretty good areas to just play around and find stuff. I've never run into a party there, I would be amazed if there was a guidebook. Print out mountain project and go apeshit. Hillbilly Hollow also has some interesting stuff to boulder, but its not on here. Hit me up for more beta on that area.
By Jeff House
From: rapid city sd
Mar 8, 2012
snow on the top?
By Eero46
Apr 8, 2012
Where is the best spot to camp if bouldering?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2012
Hey DL climbers! Darin Limvere is doing a DLFA film, you may have seen some of his work with the recent Dean Potter documentary, as well as a few skateboarding movies, and Red Bull commercials.

Contribute to the fund on kickstarter if you can to help defray the initial startup and music costs, otherwise look for the film coming soon!

kickstarter.com/projects/21268...
By Lycra-lover
Oct 12, 2012
hey im from utah and am currently living in iowa and was wondering what the ideal climbing season for the lake is? it looks like its the nearest area that has a lot of good climbing ranging from difficulty and types. can anyone give me some insight and be interested in showing me around if i can make it up there?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 13, 2012
Fall is best for sure but you can climb year around.
Send me an e-mail. I get out often to DL but mostly weekend days and occasional Friday.

burtacus.l@gmail.com
By Peter Beck
Nov 19, 2012
I had to bail late in the day on October 27th and left an entire top rope setup on Birch Tree Crack. All the hardware is marked with blue and yellow tape.

3 Camalot's each with a bright orange BD hoodwire biner
2 Omega Pacific pear shaped lockers
Blue/red/purple cordalette
Purpe 1 inch webbing

I'm a teacher and climbing coach in the area. Please contact me if you recovered the gear.
avoiceof@gmail.com
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2012
Ahhh.... start of the winter hibernation mode for DL climbers.... speaking in terms of MountainProject activities specifically....
as the temps outside drop the amount of interaction slows to a sticky molasses crawl....
By Tradoholic
Dec 1, 2012
Hey, did anyone climb anything hard and scary this year? Tell us about it!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2013
If any Devil's Lake climbers found the helmet in this photo at the base of Stool Pigeon gimme a shout. It's greasy, nasty, and old (like me) and I assume nobody but me would want to use it... If you demand a bounty let me know.

mountainproject.com/v/10788748...

Also, there are 2 nuts on that wall free for the taking. One on Stool Pigeon and one on Chicago. 'Twas late in the day, we were lazy, blah blah blah. Maybe they are already gone. Red and purple if I remember right.

Thanks!
By Dan Adsmond
May 17, 2013
BEWARE OF BAT! I was climbing in the Old Sandstone Area this past Wed on Team Arturo/Alligator Wall. On the far left end of the overhang about 2/3 of the way up is an awesome undercling that calls out to you. I happily jammed my fingers up in there as far as they would go and was promptly bit on my middle finger. After yanking out my hand in a hurry, I peeked up in there and saw the face and heard the chatter of a very irritated bat. Rather than stopping to discuss his medical condition with him,I apologized profusely and continued on my way floundering to the top without knowing whether he (or she...didn't check sex)was rabid. Upon returning home I jumped on the CDC site and learned that the chances of me contracting rabies from this guy were less than 6% but if I did, I could plan on dying a horrible death in the near future. I am now beginning a series of shots which aren't particularly bad in comparison to the possible alternative, but I am told, will cost several thousand dollars.
My Advice: Save yourself a few bucks while improving your climbing ability, by doing Alligator Wall without the obvious undercling. Happy Climbing!...By the way Old Sandstone Area is really cool...a welcome relief from the slippery quartzite on a hot day!
By Tito Krull
May 28, 2013
Hello gonna be climbing the lake on the 14th of june through the 23rd or something like that, anyone is welcome to join me i've got gear, we can trade on some ropes, heres my number (920)250-1621...
Also i was wondering on some common sling lengths used for anchors, i here 2-10footers and 1-20footer works pretty good, just looking for some advice on that, thanks, peace...
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 28, 2013
Tito, if you haven't already bought your webbing I'd say to 20-footers is generally more useful than a 20 and 2 x 10, but 40 feet total in any combination of lengths should be enough. Hope that helps.
By Tito Krull
May 30, 2013
Doug thanks for the tip it helps, yea i have my webbing but i have more than enough, thanks
By Tito Krull
Jun 17, 2013
Hey everyone looking for a ride to devils lake willing to splitting gas cost have gear and rope
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2013
Great and interesting article\interview featuring JJ Schlick - one of Wisconsin's own living and climbing very actively in Arizona...

www.grassroutesclimbing.com/

Posted by Joel Unema originally.