Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Devils Lake vs. Tetons
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By CCase
Jul 24, 2014
I am heading out to the Tetons next week. It will be my first time in the Tetons and I was wondering if anyone from the Lake with experience in the area could give me some sort of indication of how ratings stack up.

I understand that they are very different types of climbing and there are other factors involved, but just looking for an idea to base a potential tick list... I have heard people say .5 a grade to a grade soft on a pitch my pitch basis (ie. discounting alpine/multi-pitch factors). Is this realistic?

FLAG
By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 24, 2014
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard
It's more than realistic.

FLAG
By Justin Meyer
From Madison, WI
Jul 24, 2014
Justin on Pywiack Dome
I was recently in the tetons but I only had time to climb one route. I think that the ratings were comparable. The rock was different but the 10c felt about the same as 10c routes here. Note that it was at a sport crag (blacktail butte, see tick list), not alpine multipitch.

Have fun! The tetons are awesome!

FLAG
By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jul 24, 2014
hi
I have climbed alpine in the Tetons as well a lot at the lake. I think they are about the same in feel for the grade. 5.9 on the dihedral of horrors for example is longer, but pulling down on the the hard part felt the same as pulling down on Upper D. 5.7 on the direct Petzolt feels about the same as Peters. That being said, you will have a pack on, the altitude will be higher, the rock may be cold ect...ect...

FLAG
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Jul 24, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
I agree (sort of) with Jon. The situation is harder in the Tetons, but I'd add that the climbing itself is easier there. Compare Baxter's Pinnacle to any 5.9 at DL--I'd bet the DL 5.9 is harder.

FLAG
By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jul 24, 2014
hi
I don't know about that, that last pitch on Baxter's is quite hard! Or is it 10a......

FLAG
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Jul 24, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
It's been a long time, but do you think it's harder than Chicago, Upper D, etc?

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 24, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Jay Knower wrote:
I agree (sort of) with Jon. The situation is harder in the Tetons, but I'd add that the climbing itself is easier there. Compare Baxter's Pinnacle to any 5.9 at DL--I'd bet the DL 5.9 is harder.


Agree it's alot nicer rock so you seem to climb better on Teton rock. It's the long approach hikes with a load of gear,stumping through snow in early June that makes it harder. Should be nice and melted out by now,,warmer, superb for climbing.

FLAG
 
By CCase
Jul 25, 2014
Thax all, appreciate the feedback.

FLAG
By Dylan B.
Jul 25, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Agree it's alot nicer rock so you seem to climb better on Teton rock. It's the long approach hikes with a load of gear,stumping through snow in early June that makes it harder. Should be nice and melted out by now,,warmer, superb for climbing.


That's crazy talk. There is no nicer rock than Baraboo Quartzite.

FLAG
By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 25, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
D.Buffum wrote:
That's crazy talk. There is no nicer rock than Baraboo Quartzite.


Texture, friction!! We got NONE at home on quartzite...I remember just being amazed at the way my feet worked FOR me on my first Teton trip!!!!

FLAG
By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Jul 25, 2014
hi
Jay, I don't really remember, it's been a long time for me as well on that route.

And I agree with Dylan, the Baraboo Qtz is better than 65% of the rock I have been on in the Tetons!

FLAG
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Jul 25, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
I would sat that DL has the BEST rock for learning how to climb. The slick rock requires precise, laser-focused footwork, which comes in handy in the Tetons, or anywhere else for that matter.

I remember the first time I climbed away from DL. I was at Jackson Falls on Master Marley, and I was like "Dudes, I can stand anywhere!"

FLAG
By Dylan B.
Jul 25, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
Friction is for wieners.

FLAG
By Bobrunning
From Madison, wi
Jul 27, 2014
Michigan's UP
I would say the grades are about the same. For me the difference is that out west it seems some routes are a one or two move 5.9, whereas at the lake it would be a lower grade. Birch tree comes to mind. That one move does not feel to me like a 5.7.

I seconded Baxters and the lower pitches are 5.6 and that is about DL normal. The last pitch is a two move 5.9. However, you need to step off a nice ledge into free space with poor feet.

You did not ask, but if you heading out there I recommend joining the Americian apline club and staying at the climbers ranch. It is cheap and there is a lot of neat people at the ranch. Also if you don't know the area hiring a guide can save a day or two trying to find your way around. Excum guiding company is a good group and they can help make sure you start the trip knowing the ins and outs of the area.

Bob

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.