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devils lake conditons
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By DrunkenHaymitch
From Madison, WI
Mar 16, 2014
Anyone have any info on devils lake conditions? Hoping not to need crampons o get up the CCC trail in the next week or so.

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By Paul Leverich
Mar 16, 2014
Leading Cox hollow Right side
I might take a look tomorrow. Balanced rock trail is usually the first to open up fully.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Mar 17, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
snow? ice, XC skiing, is Cascade still open for downhill skiing? Who tries to rock climb in 20 temps anyway? A wasted spring break week coming up next week in these conditions, I'm guessing even the Red is full of cold and snow yet. crapola weather for climbers yet.

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By Justin Meyer
From Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2014
Justin on Pywiack Dome
I climbed about 10 routes on the east bluff on Saturday. The CCC trail was icy at the bottom but otherwise mostly clear. Fair number of hikers, no crampons or microspikes.

The base of the cliff and the rock were dry. The climbing was a little cold due to 35 degree temp but I actually had my gloves off most of the time since there was no wind and sometimes sun. It's definitely climbable right now if there's no wind or precipitation.

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By Terry Kieck
Mar 17, 2014
I climbed Friday afternoon at Balanced rock and the conditions were great. No greasing off holds at this time of the year... As Justin said, the first couple of switchbacks are snow/ice covered but after that its an easy hike. All of the East bluff looks good and even most talus bouldering would be ready to get on. The west bluff did not look as clear of snow.

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By DrunkenHaymitch
From Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2014
Thanks for the info! Might try to get out and hike if nothing else.

I've had enough XC skiing for the year after the birkie death march from Cable to Hayward this year.

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By Joe50131
From Johnston, Iowa
Apr 24, 2014
What do the conditions at Devil's lake look like currently? I've got a trip planned for the weekend of April 26th. It looks like there is a lot of rain in the forecast between now and then, but other than that, is the snow melted off yet?

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 24, 2014
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
Snow is gone. Your good to go. Folks have been hit'n it for a month now..

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Apr 24, 2014
hi
Even climbed last night after work. The rain was never hard enough to soak the rocks down low and we got a few good TRs in. But to note, if there is some wind the rock drys really fast at 'd Lake.

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 24, 2014
Other fun stuff.
It's really snowy and icy. And the flies, ticks, rattlesnakes, and mosquitos are out in force. Plus the rednecks target shooting at the cliffs -- scary! Defintely stay away for a while. Don't believe Burt and Jon.

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By Joe50131
From Johnston, Iowa
Apr 24, 2014
I love flies, ticks, rattlesnakes, and mosquitos; and dodging bullets just adds a little extra sport doesn't it?

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By Dylan B.
Apr 24, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
Chris, you forgot to mention that this is wasp season at the lake. The wasps are swarming the bluffs whenever the sun is out.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 24, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
D.Buffum wrote:
Chris, you forgot to mention that this is wasp season at the lake. The wasps are swarming the bluffs whenever the sun is out.

" Season"? that's any warm day from spring through the first good freeze to put a stop to them. Terrible on Berkeley every year right at the cruz pro placement moves. Chalkback full of Black Flag spray cans!!

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By Dylan B.
Apr 24, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
" Season"? that's any warm day from spring through the first good freeze to put a stop to them. Terrible on Berkeley every year right at the cruz pro placement moves. Chalkback full of Black Flag spray cans!!


Really? In my experience they're really only there in spring and fall. During the summer and winter months, I never see them.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 24, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Was there on mid July back in 90's...don't know where they came from but a batch came out of some crack on Leaning Tower and stung a 5 yr. old boy all over his face that day. All we had was cold water to try and comfort him. They are everywhere, but usually can be ignored. I've climbed through a swarm, as they just ran down my arm like a runway, and took off into the air. Strange..glad I'm not allergic to stings.

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By jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Apr 24, 2014
hi
There are ground wasps as well at the lake and sting all summer long. The "regular" wasps I really only see in the spring and fall like D.Buffum, on the warm, sunny rock faces.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 24, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
warm sunny days, rock wasps, yup..those are the culprits. they just come out in swarms as you pass by the cruz of a climb, hand in crack, wasps crawling out on your hand and arm. Don't freak, stay calm, make the smooth exit move, and live to climb another day without anelphilactic shock , swelling, closed trachea, and death.

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By roger fritz from rockford, IL
From Rockford, IL
Apr 27, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall
Their engines were not quite get running on all cylinders this weekend but I saw several faces looking out at me. As far as Ice...we did find a few wonderful pieces of blue ice up in Parfreys Glen at the end of the canyon.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 28, 2014
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
roger fritz from rockford, IL wrote:
Their engines were not quite get running on all cylinders this weekend but I saw several faces looking out at me. As far as Ice...we did find a few wonderful pieces of blue ice up in Parfreys Glen at the end of the canyon.

!!!! Is that allowed??? Or are you risking arrest and a huge fine for climbing in their sensitive nature preserve area? I'd not be up there doing that , especially on thin late season ice.

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 28, 2014
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
No it is not allowed. Be very careful fellow climber folks. It is common knowledge it is tenuos ground on which we all walk concerning climbing access on WI state lands. I don't want to be judgemental other then I certainly would not make mention of such things on-line even in a most sublime way.

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By Mike Robinson
Apr 28, 2014
M Robinson on POW in May 13
Chris,
If you are shooting, no one in Sauk county has anything to worry about... ;) But really, climbing at the lake is dangerous to say the least. Stay away.

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 28, 2014
Other fun stuff.
He didn't say he was ice climbing up there, just that there was some ice. Sheesh!

Oh, and LOW BLOW Mike!

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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 28, 2014
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
I was just jealous I didn't get to.....um... err... actually find the blue ice myself anywhere near DLSTP this year. It was a crappy year for it last season in the park environs despite the length of and severity of the winter plus I was on the injured list all season anyways. Hope it was fun either way... staring up at the forbiden ice or actully....... punch'n holes in it.

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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 28, 2014
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
Can't believe I missed that Chris was talking about himself!

WRT Parfrey's: there are State Natural Areas where there was climbing first, and then there are old, heavily used, well-loved State Natural Areas like Parfrey's. Personal opinion: we should leave Parfrey's alone. I heard Roger say he *saw* ice (which I'm jealous I didn't get to see).

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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Apr 29, 2014
Other fun stuff.
Ski faster, Mike.



Better ski a bit faster Robinson!  Like 1100fps!
Better ski a bit faster Robinson! Like 1100fps!

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By roger fritz from rockford, IL
From Rockford, IL
Apr 30, 2014
Wichita Mountains, Sunshine Wall
Chris treggE wrote:
He didn't say he was ice climbing up there, just that there was some ice. Sheesh! Oh, and LOW BLOW Mike!


I would never climb in closed areas. Parfreys Glen is one of the coolest places in WI and the vegetation is way cool. I was in there (long story) just a few hours after the last flood (2008 i think). It is neat to see how that place is healing up.

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