|
CCas
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Bend, OR
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 145
Just wanted to throw together a quick list of worthwhile climbs at the Lake by "style" below 5.12 (so for us mere mortals). I apologize if this is already a thread as I was not able to find anything (if you know of one, let me know and I will move this to that thread). I understand that there is a lot of grey in these categories as nothing at devils lake is consistently one style, but any additions would be appreciated (esp in the offwidth area)... Crack: Brentons Crack (5.6 - hardly a crack IMHO) Curving Crack (5.8) Upper Diag (5.9) Congratulations (5.10a) Sometimes Crack (5.10a) Cheatah (5.10b) Offwidth/Squeeze Chim: Impossible Crack (5.8) The V (5.10d) Face/Slab: Brothers (5.7) Wessners Face (5.7) Green Bulge (5.7) Queens Face (5.8) Stretcher (5.9) Mammalary Magic (5.10a) Alpha C (5.10d)
|
|
Mike Robinson
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 251
I'm not really into offwidths so I didn't have much to add there... Cracks: The Spine (5.4) Queen's Throne (5.4) Angel's Crack (5.6) Coatimundi Crack (5.6) The Great Crack (5.6) The Rack (5.7) Peter's Project (5.7) Michael's Project (5.**) Dippy Diagonal (5.7) False Alarm Jam (5.7) Lost Face Finger Crack (5.7) Rogers Roof (5.8) Birch Tree (5.8) Breakfast of Champions (5.9) Hammer Crack (5.9) Callipigeanous Crack (5.10a) Gills Crack (5.10c) I'm sure there are some others to add...
|
|
Double J
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,952
No grade on Michael's Proj?!?
|
|
Mike Robinson
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 251
jon jugenheimer wrote:No grade on Michael's Proj?!? You jumped on that.
|
|
Jack C
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Green River, UT
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 325
There's an unnamed 5.6 OW near coup d'état and SOGC with a bunch of chockstones that is a good lead with just double length slings and some biners. It's that perfect chicken-wing/just-barely-fit-your-torso size.
|
|
Nathan Sward
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 145
This is great! Quality overhangs: Lost Face Overhang I & II (5.8) Orgasm (5.8) Double Overhang (5.4)
|
|
Bootz Ylectric
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:No grade on Michael's Proj?!? 5.8 isn't it? Cracks: Lost face 5.7 Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 Rogers Roof 5.8 (the upper half at least for cracks Curving Crack 5.8 American Beauty Crack 5.8 Lechery 5.8 Offwidth The Plank 5.8 Impossible Crack 5.8 (if only it was about 30 feet longer.)
|
|
Double J
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,952
The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack.
|
|
Bootz Ylectric
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack. Am I thinking of the wrong route? The big wide crack that goes under that roof in the amphitheater. That crack is pretty damn wide to me. I thought that was the plank was committing to that big wide crack.
|
|
Bootz Ylectric
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack. Am I thinking of the wrong route? The big wide crack that goes under that roof in the amphitheater. That crack is pretty damn wide to me. I thought that was the plank was committing to that big wide crack.
|
|
Double J
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,952
Ah, you are talking about that 5.6 (?) wide crack, nope, The Plank heads out right...get on it next time you are there and "Walk the Plank"...you will get the name then. I just did the route for the first time last week, its a good little gem.
|
|
CCas
·
Jul 29, 2015
·
Bend, OR
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 145
|
|
Bootz Ylectric
·
Jul 30, 2015
·
Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:Ah, you are talking about that 5.6 (?) wide crack, nope, The Plank heads out right...get on it next time you are there and "Walk the Plank"...you will get the name then. I just did the route for the first time last week, its a good little gem. Got it! Thanks for the info.
|
|
Ted Pinson
·
Aug 10, 2015
·
Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Isn't Breakfast an off-width? Also, I remember Cheetah being more of a thin face climb than true-blue "crack climb."
|
|
Andy Hansen
·
Aug 10, 2015
·
Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,195
Breakfast of Champions is not OW. It's a #3 Camalot sized crack with jugs near/in it. Still, it's a really, really good route. I'd also say that Cheatah is more of a face climb than anything. Also, that "unnamed 5.6 OW" near SOGC is called "Hot Beef Injection."
|
|
AJ Leiden
·
Aug 10, 2015
·
Eau Claire, WI
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 0
Andy Hansen wrote: Also, that "unnamed 5.6 OW" near SOGC is called "Hot Beef Injection." Actually it seems the OW Jack is referring to is The Bastard Chimney. We didn't have any idea of the name or grade and Sven's guidebook was less than enlightening. Hot Beef Injection looks fun though!
|
|
Jack C
·
Aug 17, 2015
·
Green River, UT
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 325
Yeah AJ's correct: it's "the bastard chimney."
|
|
Nathan Sward
·
Aug 17, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 145
Does anyone know of any slabby routes at the Lake? I know that's almost oxymoronic considering the Baraboo Quartzite. The lady and I are hitting the Flatirons in October, and I'm looking for the best way to accustom her to some exposed slab. Unfortunately we don't have time to travel to the Red, where I know of some routes. Otherwise we'll just hit some high/exposed routes on gear.
|
|
Andy Hansen
·
Aug 17, 2015
·
Longmont, CO
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 3,195
nsward wrote:Does anyone know of any slabby routes at the Lake? I know that's almost oxymoronic considering the Baraboo Quartzite. The lady and I are hitting the Flatirons in October, and I'm looking for the best way to accustom her to some exposed slab. Unfortunately we don't have time to travel to the Red, where I know of some routes. Otherwise we'll just hit some high/exposed routes on gear. There is nothing remotely close to the climbing found on the Flatirons at Devil's Lake. The closest thing you'll find it the Little Flatiron and that is by name only. Your best bet is to just get lots of mileage on Brinton's, Foreplay, Charybdis, Coatamundi, etc. and she'll likely have no problem with the Flatirons.
|
|
Double J
·
Aug 17, 2015
·
Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,952
|
|
Double J
·
Aug 17, 2015
·
Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 3,952
|