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Apr 5, 2013
Been bouldering for a couple of years, looking for advice transitioning to trad. I am planning on spending as much time as possible at devils lake this summer. Are there any trad climbers looking for partners or a group of people that regularly go climbing that wouldnt mind passing on some knowledge. I have everything needed rope, rack, etc, just lack knowledge and partners. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated ! Stephen Wallace
From Schaumburg, IL
Joined Mar 27, 2013
0 points
Administrator
Apr 5, 2013
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
Pyramid building. Start with a base of as many easy well protected leads as possible and then gradually narrow the numbers in the upward direction as far as difficulty and the downward direction as far as frequency. You will gradually get a feel for the typical types of protection needs and where and when to find it and especially when you venture onto the harder more blank climbs in between the easier stuff. You can also attempt mock leads on a TR to help figure out what your limits are on the pink quartzite on the lead with respect to technique (both in the actual climbing and placing pro) and strength/endurance. I think even the seasoned lead climber at DL builds a pyramid of routes early in the season to gain strength and confidence. Burt Lindquist
From Madison, WI
Joined Jan 1, 2002
3,297 points
Administrator
Apr 5, 2013
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rock...
Keep posting Stephen and I am sure you will find regualr lead partners for DL. I know a few of us are headed out this coming weekend maybe both days but for sure Sunday (dry in the forecast). Burt Lindquist
From Madison, WI
Joined Jan 1, 2002
3,297 points
Apr 5, 2013
getting ready for the final roof series
My friend and mentor runs Devils Lake Climbing Guides and will be running anchor building/climbing courses at Devils Lake all season. There is also a PCGI single pitch guide course coming up this spring. They are cheaper than AMGA and run by leaders who left AMGA to deliver a better product. If you have the means, you will learn a ton from these guys. devilslakeclimbingguides.com/ climbingguidesinstitute.org/si... Calvino
From Newhalem, WA
Joined May 1, 2010
200 points
Administrator
Apr 5, 2013
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.
It's always kinda tough coordinating with folks who don't live in your same town.

I'm out this weekend, but I know several groups have Sunday plans. DL is one place you can go and strike up a conversation.

Advice: like Burt says, mileage. You want to be practiced enough at the easy stuff that you barely think about it, and you only get there by putting in some time.
Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,192 points
Apr 5, 2013
Thanks for all the insight ! Very much appreciated... Can't wait till all the snow is gone and warmer weather ! Stephen Wallace
From Schaumburg, IL
Joined Mar 27, 2013
0 points
Apr 6, 2013
hi
The snow is gone on the east bluff, and the rock is dry....except for the rain today. the only snow is still in the woods, and up to 4 inches deep in places still. jon jugenheimer
From Madison
Joined Apr 24, 2006
1,229 points
Apr 6, 2013
Just go up there, lots of partners willing to belay. TR solo and plug gear for practice too. Tradoholic
Joined Apr 17, 2004
12,440 points
Apr 10, 2013
Devils Lake
+1 for www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/

Highly recommended. I took a anchor building class last summer and learned a ton. Also really helped with skill and confidence. Well worth it.
Jeremy1701
Joined May 21, 2012
28 points
Apr 10, 2013
Jeremy1701 wrote:
+1 for www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/ Highly recommended. I took a anchor building class last summer and learned a ton. Also really helped with skill and confidence. Well worth it.


I highly recommend adventuresinclimbing.org, but that's because I work there. lol

I'm also from the Schaumburg area so let me know if you're ever wanting to go up!

Matt
MattG.
Joined Jan 30, 2008
157 points
Apr 10, 2013
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
I'm a new leader, and very timid. I'd be glad to climb with you most weekends, so long as you're willing to climb every 5.4 at the lake. Dylan B.
Joined Mar 31, 2006
406 points
Apr 11, 2013
Well, as long as this post is one big plug for Guide services at DL, I HIGHLY recommend Vertical Adventure Guides verticaladventure.org

C u at the Lake! ;)
MidWestIceClimbing
Joined Mar 31, 2013
0 points
Apr 12, 2013
Just a heads up that there will be a PCIA Base Managed Climbing Instructor Course at DLSP this 5/31, 6/1, 6/2 w/ the BMCI Exam on 6/3.
For more info go to:
pcia.us/newpro/node/95

This course in itself is great for those looking to get fully dialed in on top rope anchor efficiency and running a climbing site.
EB
From Winona
Joined Jan 1, 2002
790 points


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