Devil's Lake Bouldering 

Not sure why but when you look at the Devil's Lake main page, on the left "area" menu Devil's Lake Bouldering is listed as having 0 routes...

Also it seems we have two listings for the Chode Boulder.

Paul, the route count takes a day or so to update. I've deleted the duplicate Chode Boulder. Thanks for the feedback.

Aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, much better!!!

Paul, as you know, there is no bouldering at Devil's Lake.

That's what most of the general public thinks. That's why our route count needs to be HUGE!!! ^_^

Awesome, I was thinking about asking you guys to consolidate all the Bouldering. Beat me to it!

LOTS of potential around that "Slant" Boulder field on the West Bluff!

Nice Jay, this is a much better way to distinguish the bouldering.

Wow, I go to Noah's Ark for a day and things explode on here! So cool to see so many boulders coming up here!!!

200 boulder problems are now documented for Devil's Lake. Impressive! Nice job guys!

I moved stuff around based on conversations with Brian, Steve, and Remo. Suggestions are always welcome. Also check out wisconsinbouldering.blogspot.com/ for more beta.

Thanks Steve for making the outline, I think this will hopefully be a little easier to navigate geographically.

In addition to the link in my post above for Steve's blog, you can find a West Bluff miniguide prepared by The Climbing Narc (click on the link in the second paragraph) here.

Also there is an older miniguide that does not include the West Bluff on this site. It looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost.

anybody recognize the problem he's climbing in this photo?www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Nate_working_a_projec>>>

I would also recommend just looking at his photos. Lots of stuff to get you psyched on bouldering at the lake. One especially cool picture of a sweet looking boulder on the south bluff somewhere.
www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/photos/search.cgi?query=&LinkOw>>>

Tony, I think the line you're looking at is the Ejaculator. Pretty sure at least.

Yeah Steve is right, thats the Ejaculator, I just compared a bunch of photos because I was wondering the same thing myself :)

Good or Bad day of bouldering today?

Hit the ending 'jug' but did NOT send: Moj, Perfect Medium, and Sex and Chocolate....nearly did the same on venus rising, but stuck it the last go of the day....
Lake bouldering is so hard!

You were out crankin in the woods on a nice fall day, with two of the sweetest boulder pads your feet will ever land on. GOOD day.

So, Doc Melin, Venus Rising? What, like V4/5?

So true! I sure did a lot of falling, and not a single bad landing all day.
As far as venus rising goes....V5 sounds about right, or does it maybe have a super low sit start that I didnt see?

:)

I have someone's stick brush they left and or stashed by ironically enough the stache boulder ha! My apologies for taking it but i dont take kindly to "stashed" stuff. I only removed it for the sake that the bouldering areas at the lake are getting trashed quickly and i refuse to see access dwindle down to nothing because of people leaving stuff behind. Im at the lake every weekend gimme a message and you can have it back! If you live in route to the lake from burbs of chicago i will even go out of my way to drop it off personally if you cant make it to the lake. Once again my apologies but please leave no trace.

Also info is needed on a petzl bag stashed near the massive vertigo area with a bunch of crow bars and etc. Who owns this bag? Why is that even out there? Do you really "clean" routes with that stuff? I can understand if it was in a random bag but its a petzl bag which is a dead give away its a climber. Anybody who works at devils lake will know a climber left it behind giving us a bad rep cause surely know one would understand why we need that kind of stuff out there anyways. Please let me know whats going on with that because i will hike it out and remove it in 2 weeks from now. You can have it back any weekend since im always there and if you live in route from the chicago burbs to the lake i can drop it off at your house.

Like i said my apologies for being the jerk to remove stuff even though its not my place to but it wasnt really your place to leave stuff anyways...Feel free to contact me with any concerns my main objective with this post was to inform people i removed stashed stuff to improve the quality relationship us boulders have with the park staff. You can everything back and ill even go out of my way to make sure you get it back!

PLEASE PEOPLE LEAVE NO TRACE!

Greg please leave the bag there, I will notify the owner of your concern. The nice(r) landing on Tunder Tighs/Full Moon Rising is a result of hard work and the contents of that bag. I doubt the park rangers care if the landing has been "Jenga'ed". If anything, it will lead to less broken bones and climber injuries, something we can all agree is a good thing.

Glad you're getting out again! PM me when you head out, I'd love to meet you out there and throw down.

Chris, Awesome thanks for the quick respons. I really had no clue why it was there amd frankly it wasnt a concern what the contents did but more or less just bummed the bag was out there in general! But kudos fo hauling all that shit out there to whomever that landing is pretty nice! PM me your digits so we can meet up! Also i have a feeling i know who the bags is...if im right ill be in his area soon for a comp and if he wants to save a trip i can bring it up for him? Let me know in a PM! Like i said earlier wasnt trying to be a jerk just want a clean crag!

just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who is searching for the new projects, putting up all these sweet new lines, and in general being some bad ass pad peoples! The new work being done at the lake is hand downs nothing short of inspiring! Nothing makes a week of shitty school better then having a whole slew of things to climb on the weekends! cue pat on the back for all...now! Thanks guys!

Another Rock Warrior Film coming soon!

What is the best project Left to do at the lake?

your mom

Nic, I think the best hard projects out there are: Tipping Point-full line(lower start with higher finish), Crack of Doom(has shot down many strong climbers), Block Party(just hard), Toe Hook(one to two really hard moves, ask Peter) and the steep roof behind Smooth Operator(I think you've seen this one). There are many more and I'm sure other people have projects out there too, but these IMHO are some of the best. Come down and send them!

Chris, I hate to add work to your list, but would it be possible to put these links in the area description? You could add the link to the topo I commented on recently too. I stole these links from your 2009 comments, might be helpful for somebody.

Also, does anybody know who did the second link (East Bluff) topos? I've redone them (mostly) and renamed routes like face v0 with their mountain project equivalents, at least as far as I can tell. I don't feel right re-posting them without their approval.

Narc's West Bluff Miniguide

East Bluff Topos

No problem, will do. The links are just a few posts up from yours here on this page (Nov 4th, 2009) but I can add them to the description too.

I thought Eric Z created those topos but I guess I was wrong, I have no idea who did, and since it's been on the web for so long I don't think anyone will care if you update and post them. Thanks!

Yeah, I saw that they were in there, figured big blue text in the area description would be easier to see. I'll try and get those posted in the next couple days here.

I'm not sure who did them but if it's any consolation they are direct copies(albeit less artistic and more basic) of EZ's guide. Down to the descriptions and overview map.

Thanks Chris and Steve, I'll get to it then. Unless the weather tomorrow is as good as it was today, that is.

I have Eric Z's Rock and Ice guide. I can post to photos for historical interest if legal. It's basically the original for the topos linked here, which, in turn, is the R&I version of Git on It.

It fills out some of the missing info on the "copy" topos (info which is available on MP) such as climbs 52 - 56 on the Monolith map. Also clears up the question about a Tumbled Rocks guide (no).

A blast from the past!

I've asked Eric Z to let me know how he feels about all this.

The R&I guide is under their copyright, I presume? Posting one page is probably "fair use" (as long as you include a note about the original source), but posting the whole thing would be a pretty clear infringement ... you could ask them for permission ....

Zschiesche writes:

"Thanks for the query,... in regard to the information and drawings from " Git on it ", feel free to use them. In regards to the R&I article,... I am not sure who has the copyright "rights" to that material. Thanks again, and,... any more questions, fire away.

cheers, Eric"

So if you post copies, please get them from "Git On It!", and make sure to include an attribution.

West Bluff Bouldering Area

Found a great area that has no chalk anywhere! Was confused since there seem to be many great potential routes. Some landings may be dicey but if a big enough group with lots of mats climbs there it would be really nice. The location is about 75 meters north of Moj, and SuperSlab and about 20-30 meters uphill. My friend and I walked straight downhill from the area and popped out north of the 500ft boulder field near a bench named after a woman...forgot the name :(

If anyone is interested in checking it out I would be happy to show you.

In regard to Brians Runnells West Bluff Topo Map.

Don't believe the John F McArthur bench exists anymore. Wasn't able to find the yellow spray painted dot in the 150ft boulder field either.

I think we got rid of the yellow dot on one of our graffiti clean ups, last Fall.

I can confirm for certain that the yellow dot was removed in the graffiti cleanup. If you look closely you might be able to see a patch of dead lichen on the rock where it once was. It made me think about how often graffiti is referenced as a landmark when navigating to climbing areas at the Lake..and then about how it's kind of useful...and then about how ugly it is..and then how we should remove it...and then how people are going to get lost. Apparently I was right.

I cannot for the life of me find the "Beautiful and the bold" project. It was posted awhile back and I want to look at the pics. Anyone know where it is?

www.mountainproject.com/v/beautiful-and-the-boldproject/1070>>>

Thanks Chris. You beat me to it:)